Digital EQ will do the trick, and it’s free (Equalizer APO and Peace). There is no all encompassing one EQ configuration for your headphones for all genres, as recording and mixing & mastering qualitiy varies with each album, but PEQ will allow you to EQ as you see fit.
See the link below for an EQ tutorial from Resolve:
You want a simple solution? Listen to as much live music as you can. Different genres, different venues. Listen carefully. Then trust your ears.
If you listen to live performances you’ll appreciate how things actually sound. You won’t be looking for punch, slam, micro or macro detail, soundstage, crossfeed or reverb. As a bonus you might take in some great performances.
Then, when you go back to your system you will understand how it isn’t like live. And you can use EQ or whatever to make it sound closer, but you will know the limitations and live with them.
Hi guys, I’m new here!
I would like to ask firstly, does the Edition XS have as good of a midrange presentation as the HD 600? I have the former but not the latter, and I am wondering if I am missing out on anything. I have noticed that on even cheaper dynamic drivers the mids are somehow sweeter, if that is a thing…did I hear it right?
The short answer is no. The long answer is, it’s complicated. There might be EQ profiles out these for those headphones, but they likely won’t match your HRTF exactly; that’s why the manual method is recommended. You can start with Oratory’s EQ and work from there, but just stopping there will only get you so far (if anywhere at all). You could also load the measurement into a tool like Crinacle’s or Listener’s, manually EQ to JM1 or DF + slope and then do the rest manually from there (this is what I’ve been doing).
Went to Best Buy today to see what wired headphones they had, and pickins were might slim. JVC HA-S31M, Sony ZX110 (in two colors), and some wired gamer headsets (Razer Blackshark and HyperX Cloud are two I looked at). Some wireless headphones that take a wire, and some Logitechs for PCs. About it. They were very helpful though.
Although I’m not in the market for a wireless NC heaphone, I was sort of interested in trying out the new Bose QC Ultra. They had it on display. But the pads were both completely ripped at the seams on the inside, and foam inserts were exposed/coming out. Tried them though. A little too much bass on the default settings.
I listened to the Bose 700’s a few times a long time ago during the pandemic, and they didn’t sound too bad. Maybe a little warm, and uneven in the upper mids/treble. But they weren’t too bad as I recall. And seemed to be a step up from the other QC’s at the time.
I looked at a few speakers as well. The Magnolia demo rooms had Martin Logan, KEF and B&W. There were also some Klipsch, JBL, Sony, Definitive Tech and maybe a couple others outside of Magnolia, with the regular audio gear. Didn’t have time to listen to any though.
The world certainly seems to be going wireless though.
Hello, I have a technical question, and can’t find a subfo or whatever for that, or even a topic where someone has asked a technical question, let alone related to my headset. Can I ask that here?
Hello, all. I have a Turtle Beach Stealth 400 wireless headset I bought and used a few times before the pandemic. I pulled it out for something and found that while the headphone playback functions, the boom mic system seems incorrect in function. Through the headphones I hear sound coming from it all the time (voice, tapping/scraping the mic). The set-mounted volume control does not vary it, nor does the mic on/off button affect it. Windows (10) apparently sees the mic in ‘input’ as Turtle Beach microphone, but shows no signal (and will not record in Audacity or other). This happens wireless or wired (the usb wireless receiver has a digital connection that allows transmission of audio to the set, using the included tri-tip cable). Poured over the manual, swapped connection points between mic and cable, looked online and have seen nothing remotely related. What happened?
Just picked up a pair of philips x2hr HiRes cones and was wondering if anyone had any ideas to get the most out of them and maximise the listening experience. I am currently listening through my motherboard jack on my pc.
If they are brand new, I suggest just getting to know them. Put in dozens of hours of ear-time with them, and then decide what you like and don’t like. At that point, come back here and share your experience with us. We’ll be happy to help you further get the most out of them at that time.
I upgraded my source (Mac) today from a 2017 27 inch iMac which was stuck on some older software (both Mac OS and Apple Music) to a new Mac Studio M4 Max, and I swear it sounds better. I’m using the latest versions of Apple Music/Lossless Switcher (lossless always) and Qobuz. Nothing else in my chain is changed, still to Yggy OG A2 via Unison USB. I think it sounds smoother, with greater detail and soundstage, and lower noise floor perhaps. Less hash, if that makes any sense.
Am I hallucinating, or could new source actually sound better somehow? I know different streamers/DDCs can sound better, but computer?.. Any thoughts?
I’ve been glad to see you here again @Torq, what do you think? @Polygonhell ?
However, if the computer and the rest of your system are on the same power line ring (within your home - i.e., on the same breaker circuit), and especially if they’re sharing a power strip, then it’s possible there’s an actual change here.
And if so, the most likely cause is simply the EMI backwash from the SMPS in the two computers is different. A M4 Mac Studio will both be drawing a lot less power than a 27” Intel iMac, and the new PSUs have a different switching frequency, so may well be electrically quieter in terms of what garbage it puts on the power lines feeding it.
That power-line noise can affect either your DAC or your amplifier (the more likely of the two to be affected) if either is using a linear power supply (Yggdrasil does, but I don’t know what your amplifier is).
Yes they are on the same circuit, and the Yggy and computer are both on a filtered sine-wave APC Backups Pro. The amp I’ve used so far is on a different Fuhrman power strip, it’s a Nitsch DSHA-3FN so yes linear power supply to that.
I suspected it might be a better power supply in the new Mac vs old, or maybe better and quieter USB implementation? But I know nothing!