Thanks… and, um… ouch! 
With tax and shipping, we are right at $400. I could just replace the Jot when the connector breaks for that cost. 
2 Likes
This discussion took a different turn before I responded. So, these are my random thoughts on a tangent.
Note that powered speakers (1) cost more than similar passive speakers for similar quality, (2) lock in an amp decision for good or bad, and (3) may or may not resolve ‘synergy’ issues. I draw your attention to the mini-speaker landmark KEF LS 50 line. The LS50 has stunningly precise holographic imaging and started the modern mini-speaker trend AFAIK.
The passive LS50 Meta is $1,599, but very very inefficient at 85 dB. It requires a minimum 40 watt amp, and some report having to fiddle with many amps to get it to perform well.
The active model LS50 Wireless II costs $1,999 and builds in…wait for it…wireless technology! Lifestyle, lifestyle, lifestyle! Pricey, but good in this genre.
Both of these products should be paired with a (powered) subwoofer for full bass in a compact setup. If seeking the smallest possible footprint and least clutter, the Wireless II makes a lot of sense.
I myself am inclined to go with separates because complicated all-in-one stuff tends to go obsolete quickly and/or break and be unfixable. I’d keep the wireless tech and amp as separate modules, and pick-and-choose the parts. But, that’s a hobbyist attitude and it takes 10x the effort as buying a wireless model.
2 Likes
Thanks @Lou_Ford, exactly the modern balance needed for this discussion. Modern smaller bookshelves tend to have smaller woofers than old ones. I’m sure the physics support that.
My work bookshelves, the EgglestonWorks Nico Evo are mid size but only sport 6 inch woofers. Perhaps someone who has experienced both the vintage and new could compare.
Obviously the ones I have now are much more refined than the vintage models I loved, but they are more than several categories more costly ($5K). Some new speakers such as you point to sound really nice in the store.
And thanks to @generic for putting a fine point on what I was trying to convey regarding actives.
2 Likes
Something like this?
Edit: Sorry, dashed that off a little too quickly. You’ll also need some XLR Y-cables with that sort of switch.
Modern (post 1980s) woofers tend to use massive magnets and raw power to move the air. They didn’t have cheap high powered amps back then.
The old stuff (e.g., vintage Klipschorns) used relatively tiny magnets and huge horns/cones to generate volume.
1 Like
Just purchase a second Schiit Jotunheim and keep one headphone plugged into each. Done.
1 Like
Ha! You’re not wrong…
Generic, Thanks for the reply. Those speakers look awesome but are way over my intended budget. I did look at wireless speakers a while back. If I went that direction, I would probably want to go with wifi as opposed to bluetooth. Bluetooth standards are evolving so that you can get great sound with the near lossless codecs but I feel I will always be chasing the next “improved” codec. For all intents and purposes wifi is wifi and with the current standards I believe I could fully support hires data transport with the right transmitter. Thanks again.
Bookbear, If you change your mind about DIY, this would cost under $50 using cheap Chinese parts ordered online plus the cost of solder and a soldering iron.
I did have one other thought on this. If @tomcrable can run individual line-level connections from the Jot2 to left and right powered speakers, then speakers with a stereo amp in one (let’s say the left for discussion) as follows:
- Run both line level (RCA) connections to the left speaker along whatever path was planned.
- Run the speaker cable to the right back to the Jot2 along the same path, then
- Continue the speaker cable run to the right speaker along whatever path the line level connection was going to take.
That would bring something like the AudioEngine A5+ (Open Box for $279) in as a candidate.
Overall, I would still favor an approach with passive speakers and separate amplification, but this could work if you just don’t want the extra component on the desktop.
2 Likes
That’s not the point I was trying to make. You wrote:
and
There’s no such thing as a free lunch. You will either pay separately for unpowered speakers + amp, or pay more for powered speakers with a built in amp. Powered speakers (forget wireless) lock you into an integrated amp.
The KEF LS50 is beside the point, and I knew it was way out of your price range. My point was that they must charge several hundred dollars more for the powered and wireless all-in-one than the unpowered model.
No matter the price bracket, you will pay for an integrated amp. If the price tag is $100, they charge perhaps $70 for the speakers + $30 for the amp. If the price tag is $200, perhaps $140 for the speakers + $60 for the amp, etc. There is ultimately not much ‘savings’, as you are merely buying a cheaper speaker in disguise. With separates you pay for the amp alone, but can choose the amp.
3 Likes
I’ve sifted theough an incredible amount of useful information from all of you guys. Unfortunately I am now overwhelmed with indecision 
I have made one decision that i have implemented with my small, current Cerwin Vega powered speakers. I moved both the left and right speakers so that they are in a “near field” setup on my desktop and i added some height adjustable up-angled stands.
They sound 100% better but i still want to replace them. The main issue is that the sattelite is only producing about 70% of the volume of the main spreaker. I fixed that altering the balance in Windows settings but I have to remember to switch it back when i use headphones.
Because I have moved everything closer together and nearer ro the DAC / amp I really don’t have any more cabling challenges.
Now to decide, active or passive. The one decision i have made is that i want wired. I am probably going to try to source what ever I buy on the used market.
Thanks again to everyone for all the great advice.
2 Likes
I am looking closely at the Audioengine A5. Wired, no Bluetooth. I realize I will probably need a sub. As suggested I looked at Monoprice. That $159, 8" box would probably be fine in my small room. Any feedback on the A5? There are a lot of options for the A5 on eBay. That is great but it also could indicate people aren’t happy with them.
Thanks
Try the A5 before committing to a sub. They do more bass than you might guess. I had a pair of A2 that I used as my computer speakers for a long time. To @generic’s point, it was the electronics that eventually failed in them. The A2 doesn’t really have enough bass or dynamics for even half-serious music listening, but the A5 is much better at both.
As to seeing a lot on eBay, well, it has been a popular desktop choice for a long time. Also, the A5+ adds a remote control, and I could see current owners wanting to “upgrade” to get that. Reminder to read carefully on eBay – some of the listings are “parts only” meaning the speakers are no longer working.
2 Likes
Lou thanks for the feedback. I did notice a lot of “parts-only” sales. What concerned me more was there were quite a few “one speaker” sales almost all of the passive speaker. That indicates to me that the electronics failed in the powered speaker.
1 Like
I’ve owned my fair share of lifestyle systems, but go in with your eyes open. To this day, I prefer the convenience of sound bars with subs over dedicated speakers for non-music video/TV. But, a couple of those sound bars failed. One even died after one year, just out of warranty.
Embedded amps are likely similar/identical to random external Chi-Fi amps, and those are not known for durability. Embedded electronics also live a hard life attached to or inside a vibrating and hot speaker cabinet. Repairs out of warranty are often not cost effective, etc.
2 Likes
I think this is what I bought a year or so ago when my old Sansui AU-919 integrated was being fixed. @tomcrable, it’s class D (like most of those internal amps) but works like a champ. Insanely small and light, quiet, and able to drive my EgglestonWorks bookshelves just fine. No, it’s not as good as the 1980 Sansui -especially after tossing $800 into recapping, etc, but it was certainly good enough. Very clean, not junk. Topping is a reputable company except that @hottyson had a bad experience with one of their headphone amps years ago and will gladly spew vitriol wherever he sees the brand name.
3 Likes
Topping is …
6 Likes
Not sure if this thread is still relevant but here goes….
I’m looking for an alternative to AirPods I have been using Gen 2 AirPods, new generations are too big for my ears and I hate earbuds.
My price range is: £/$200
I like to listen to: music & podcasts
I will be using them for: Travel, commuting, home, gym & general use.
Have you tried using a third party extra small ear tip with your AirPods?
You may dislike IEMs, but a custom could be a solution. Ultimate Ears isn’t bad. The gel will mold to your ear and is hardened with UV.