Nectar cans are pretty fascinating too, I am well aware of them. There are a bunch of manufacturer’s that hide in the shade, but the majority of them are DIY. Some have gone out of business too…
I am hoping to put together the review for RR1 Conquest by Christmas, but that will not be an easy task due to my own high standards… I’m pretty harsh on myself when it comes to reviews. Regardless, I am looking forward to your write-up for Nectar Hive’s!
Well… Hm. I asked on another forum if Auris Audio Fortimo 6550 would be a good match, and a user said:
I don’t know specifically.
50W into 8 Ohms will give you a maximum of about 6V, so you might have a volume problem.
It’s also a transformer coupled valve amp, so it could also blow a fuse/protection circuit if it has one and worst case damage the amp
So, now I am going a step back and questioning if the originally Stax recommendation of 20W - 100W RMS would work.
It’s hard to know anything without trying, but also if you just try anything you can damage stuff… and this stuff is over the 1k euro budget, so it’s not exactly cheap… that’s why I am trying to stay well informed beforehand
I know Warwick acoustics has removable cables and uses dual XLR on their higher end electrostatic offerings, but all those ship with energizers AFAIK, so I’ll probably not it.
Good catch! I am not certain from what exact date they released their headphones with the removable cables.
Unless your other user has actually used energizers, I would tend to discount their advice. It’s not something that you can just calculate - especially not without knowing the efficiency of the headphones. If you see my private reply to you, I think that solid state or hybrid is less fraught with potential problems also.
The STAX recommendation was to work with my SRD-6 energizer, and it works fine. I’ve actually tried everything from 8 wpc to 500 wpc with no issues, although you can be sure I didn’t turn up the big amp much at all…
Apparently he has - but not mine 
(referring to whether he has used an energizer)
Should I still hold his statement accountable?
I’m not an electronic engineer, just a long time user of the Stax and an energizer before upgrading. I know more than enough to be dangerous. I will not give an opinion on someone’s statement without knowing a heck of a lot more about where they are coming from. I do agree with the idea that pure tube may not be the best thought. There are many factors to consider - from efficiency of the headphones, to the impedance as a function of frequency response. Please don’t overthink.
Given I’m the other user, my opinion was based entirely on a picture of a transformer and the 12V rating.
All I stated was 50W at 8Ohms is about 6V.
My primary concern is actually about the load the box puts on the amp, some valve amps don’t like loads that vary significantly from their intended load.
My Tube monoblocks will blow a fuse at about 20 Ohms impedance.
Indeed.
You explained yourself more than enough, with the limited specification and information about my energizer, you couldn’t help me beyond that. And you did help me understand why these concerns were brought up
Also there are limited specifications for the Fortino 6550 itself.
This is what @pennstac was referring to - there are many issues that can arise with a tube amplifier. Error and trial is a must… but you can imagine that is a bit more complicated story with a 5,000 USD amp.
At the end of the day, both the manufacturer of the energizer and the amplifier should be sure that the devices are compatible with eachother, otherwise a whole mess can happen
I see that Maximum Input Voltage, 12V RMS. I think you need to write to them. Usually it’s a wattage in RMS. 12V rms is 17V peak to peak, but it doesn’t say anything about wattage, which is important. They do say “Amp or headphone amp”.
They may really mean 12 WATTS RMS and not 12 VOLTS. I think this was pointed out before. If you look up 12V RMS amp, all you get is car amps for mobile use.
12V RMS is what confused me too. I also was thinking that it’s a mistake… but was thinking to myself “There is no way that the manufacturer mixed up volts and watts”… but you say that it is a possibility.
If it is 12W RMS, that would just mean that if I have an amp a power output that is greater than 12W RMS, that I shouldn’t turn it up to the max because that will fry the headphones or damage the energizer?
Yes, exactly. Or if it’s fused, blow a fuse.
What I am suspecting (if it is a typo) is that the person who made the website is not somebody that knows a whole lot about audiophile gear. He may have misheard “watts” and wrote “volts”.
It is fused.
If it is a typo, then that little typo created a whole lot of unnecessary confusion…
Agreed. I’m also reading the website in English. If that’s not the native language of the content writer or translator, mistakes happen. That’s why I suggest emailing the company and asking. They may be grateful and wish to correct an error. If it’s not an error, then it points out something that should be explained more completely.
This is one of the reasons why I am not trying to reveal the identity of the company. I want to notice and fix any mistakes that are currently present - you can imagine that the pressure would be too high if all of this was happening with a customer, or if there was to be some type of interest currently. I am not hiding anything… you know the saying “the curiosity killed the cat”, well I am trying not to get the cat killed - and the cat is the audience and customer in this case. That’s why I want to keep everything on the low, and I would greatly appreciate if it can stay this way until everything is set up and ready.
The website needs to be upgraded, the photography needs to be upgraded, some parts can also be worked on, these are things that I want to be finished and ready before it is ready for any discussion or anybody considering to purchase the product. Again, I am not paid for doing any of this, just am being thoughtful and want to help somebody that I think deserves help.
And of course, I want to make sure that the customer can understand these specs, like you said, if it is not a mistake, imagine somebody reading it as Watts, and then you just have a whole bunch of issues… it would be a mess.
My man!!! This is the way!!
Hey, I need the approval from the King of Purple.
What do you think of white and purple combo? Does Tyler approve?
I’m a fan of white and purple… it was the color scheme for my Titan in Destiny 2 for the longest time
Yes! Finally another person who loves that color combo. The usual black and purple is getting a bit… you know… too normal. Like black and red. Either way, still need more purple in this hobby hahahaha. There’s no such a thing as too much purple (and ofc purple significantly boosts audio quality, I think we all agreed on that.)
