Thank you for the recent video on your favorite DACs from dongles to desktops. I left a comment asking about your comment within the review about a forthcoming DAC chip from Texas Instruments. You actually mentioned Analog Devices but corrected with a screen print indicating TI. Could you elaborate? What is this new chip, it’s design and who is reportedly going to adapt to this chip. And finally, what are the technological attributes associated with this new chip?
Thank you, once again. Your reviews and commentary I look forward to and I appreciate all of the work on the channel. Send my appreciation to the entire group of you guys. You all are a breath of fresh air.
This is in reference to the new TI DAC11001B chip.
Schiit used the first DAC11001 in their Yggdrasil ‘More is Less’ edition, and whilst the 1khz SINAD alone was fantastic for an R2R DAC, it had a multitude of other issues particularly at higher frequencies. I’ve got full measurements here: Schiit Yggdrasil 'More is Less' Measurements - GoldenSound
The new ‘B’ variant of this DAC is what’s used in their “more is better” edition, they’ve sent me a board and from my testing so far it seems to basically fix the issues that were present in the first MIL version.
It’s a 20-bit R2R architecture, as to exactly how TI has achieved this level of accuracy they’re of course not going to say publicly, but this puts it neck and neck with the Holo May KTE for ‘most accurate R2R DAC’ so it’s pretty interesting.
I’ll have more to share once I’ve spent more time with it
Thank so much for the prompt reply. That’s very interesting.
I know Mike Moffet from many years ago when I was involved in owning an audio retailer. Mike, at the time was developing his original Theata Preamp. It was at that time that he was introduced to using a shunt regulated power supply by a colleague of ours, Kirk Leonard who had been using the shunt regulated power supply on his LP1 preamp, which we sold and had a hand in developing. During this period we all used to get together after hours to compare products and learn about old, proven technology etc. I am just so pleased to see that Mike spared nothing and incorporated the shunt regulation and beefed up power supplies in his signature piece. It is also good to see that they stayed away from toroidal transformers as they do nothing to filter incoming line noise and other AC line nasties.
Please keep me posted on your findings and, again, thanks for reaching out…
I’m wondering if an R2R dac is right for me. I recently got the Dragon Inspire IHA-1 and have Tungsten on order.
I’m not an audiophile but I am enthusiastic about music and audio gear. Meaning I don’t have potentially the ears or the ability to quantify different aspects in headphone equipment. I just know what I enjoy. Also I get a kick out of listening to people describe hardware that I have to get a better understanding of the audiophile world.
One thing that has been holding me back, oddly enough, is my computer. I’m to focused on flashy and clicky thing’s to really appreciate my hardware. So I’m thinking of setting up a listening station on my couch in front of my fish tank in order to really enjoy the music. I might also set up a listening room with nothing to visually distract me, no dsp no EQ just speakers dac amp hp-amp and a comfy spot to listen to music. That won’t be for a while though because I haven’t decided on the hardware yet.
So my long way of asking; what DAC should I get for the Inspire and Tungsten?
I don’t know if R2R is for me or not. I currently use the SMSL SU-9 and Topping A70pro. My goal is to use my phone or a streaming device and disconnect from my computer.
*edit: I do have a Pi2AES if that changes anything.
Thank you
I ended up getting the centaraus and immediately regretted not getting the Holo but it’s already in the mail. I think that the option for BT stuck in my brain and I forgot that the Pi2AES will do everything that BT could and better. Oh well, some day for another use it’ll come in handy.
I have heard from topping that they have apparently fixed the issues, but unfortunately I’ve not been able to check.
The centaurus is assembled in such a way that once you open it, it is physically not possible to get the ribbon cable connecting the display back into the main board without some sort of specialised long and ultra thin screwdriver to reach the far end of the chassis and remove the front faceplate.
As such I’ve not been able to get it back together again as the cable is just too short.
I have reached out to topping for advice though or to see if I can get a replacement unit to test with