Yeah, each dac behaves differently. For example, my qudelix, by default allows independent volume control from either the dac/amp or the device. But they add to each other. Others disable the system volume and make you use the dac or the amp farther down the chain. There are some that really just control the device volume from the dac/amp (particularly common with bluetooth dac/amps).
In this case, it probably means you can’t control volume in windows, at least over the USB connection (which is what you would want to use).
I would also advocate that on a desktop setup, you would primarily want to control volume from your amp, not the computer. (I reverse this on mobile because of usability issues). I think most would suggest using the e30 as dac only in this arrangement. Dacs can apply gain to the signal which function as volume. This is also how they enable remote controlled volume.
This balance can create issues for noise and other things. So to start with computer → e30 dac only → a30 pro. See how you like that. Then experiment.
This is a “purist” view where you want the device to do what it’s designed to do. But there are sometimes advantages to a “hotter” signal from the dac. I don’t understand all the intricacies here, so don’t ask me to explain that. I just advocate starting with the basics, and then learning if you want to try other things.
@Dynamic Thank you so much for helping me! Got my e30 pro an hour ago. The sound is now fantastic, aloud and rich (probably not professional description maybe I will EQ a bit more bass to make it just perfect BUT background noise is terrific. When nothing is playing I hear every kind of buzzing and cracking possible to hear. Setup already is like that: Realtek → e30 pro → XC when I plug XC directly into soundcard there is no noise at all. Can it be that e30 pro is fault?
It’s much more likely that the increase in playback level is now letting you hear stuff that was too low level to be apparent before. It’s quite common for there to be audible noise from PC sources (because they’re usually objectively terrible) … even to the point where you can modulate them by moving the mouse around.
If you want to eliminate the possibility that the Topping amp is at fault, disconnect it from the PC and see if you still hear noise with it powering the LCD-XC.
Ok. So I find this really strange.
I purchased a LCD XC 2021 about 2 months a go. I was very happy that I received the 2021 model. So serial number is 8523702. That from confirmation of audeze the new 2021 started from model 8523700.
I was stunned that I had one of the first units to be made with the new revision.
I then posted here in this post recently asking about the slightly heavier weight and one the cups having a QC problem as it was rough and not smooth.
I ended up sending them back for replacement.
After 2 and half weeks i finally got a email yesterday that there sending me a replacement and should receive it today.
I did receive them today and to my shock the number is 8523701.
Am I being pathetic or would you guys find that strange? What are the chances of that!
Yet to take them out of the box and won’t be able till Monday.
Like to know everyones thoughts.
I live in the UK
Okay, I need recommendation for dac/amp for my LCD XC. I got Topping e30 pro amp but I don’t know it was fault one or what but it was generating all noises and cracks possible. I thought it happened because as dac I was using Realtek mobo card. Then I did buy external Sound blaster X G6 and tried it like this: G6 → a30 pro → XC but it is still noisy as hell. When I plug XC directly into G6 everything is fine, noises are gone but also wide soundstage and clarity. Then I need good dac/amp recommendation in budget < $500. I know it is not much but have to be enough. Please help!
JDS Labs Element II. High quality assembly. Elegant, simple aesthetic and reputation for great customer service. Truth in advertising. Measures as good or better than many units costing way above its price point. I have yet to find a headphone that it does not drive extremely well. HD800/S, ZMF Eikon, Focal Stellia, Audeze LCD-XC (I had the 2018 model before) etc.
Splitters are often terrible. I use manual switches instead. Three meters can be very long for some applications and could be the problem. I try to keep things at 1m if possible, but sometimes have to go to 2m.
Try different brands of cables (USB and RCA), and shorter ones, and dump the splitter.
I call cable issue. Put the g6 and the a30 pro as close together as possible and use the shortest most direct cable you can. (Stacked using a six inch splitter since you must convert from a 3.5mm → rca)
Run the shortest usb cable you can to the g6.
If there is still noise, it may be worth looking to see if all things that play sound on the computer make that noise.
Sorry, late reply. I’m using them off of a Topping A90 so I should have plenty of power even while lowering the pre-amp for EQ.
Although I do like them after messing around with EQ, I ultimately decided to return them.
I measured them on a MiniDSP EARS, and although obviously not at all an industry standard rig with inaccurate treble measurements, I thought it would better explain what I mean and may be more familiar to those familiar with the MiniDSP EARS.
Note: MiniDSP EARS HPN compensation applied. No smoothing applied. Matched at 1kHz. Definitely not accurate above 3 kHz. There are some very noticeable treble peaks that do not show up here on the graph. The treble on the HD600 in the graph comparison below is also a lot smoother.
Channel imbalance at 100Hz and below is very likely due to earpad seal although I could never get the right side to level with the left side with like the 10 re-seatings that I’ve done via ARTA. I couldn’t hear the imbalance in listening though.
I’m comparing them next to an HD600 since I think most people are familiar with its frequency response or at least will have some idea of how to interpret the LCD-XC 2021 next to a familiar response.
Depending on how one looks at it, they can argue that the LCD-XC lacks a bit of warmth in the lower midrange and/or upper bass, or that the upper midrange is fairly forward. For some closed headphones, I do think the dip around 150-300 Hz can help with the sense of “spaciousness” with closed headphones if done tastefully. I think it’s fine here but I’m not a fan of the relatively forward upper midrange.
Of course, my complaints are mitigated for the most part with EQ but I just wanted to better illustrate why I didn’t really like them without EQ and explain why I don’t think it’s simply an amp issue.
Yeah I’d agree there. They don’t really ‘scale’ the same way that certain other headphones do - so I think they’re much less amp picky, provided you have low OI.
And I also agree with the general sentiment that they benefit from some lower register boost, it’s what I do at least. The default FR is perhaps more ‘audiophile’, but I think it sounds better with a bass shelf.
Just got my 2021’s today. Thank you for the EQ settings. This is a very good jump point for me. I owned the 2018 (Bocote wood) version and EQ’d it quite a bit. You are absolutely right about this one though, it really does not need it. Eq’ing is fun though so why not make the improvements, even if they are very minor?
Just received my 2021’s today. (666 grams with carbon headband ) They sound even better than I expected. The most tonally correct headphone (for my taste) I have heard, except for the one next to it in my pic. Listening to Thelonious Monk- Criss Cross album ‘Tea for Two’ as I type this. Isolation and comfort are as good or better than anything I have tried except the Stellia. These earpads (Leather) are downright luxurious. The build quality of these things makes me feel like Borat when he sits in a nice chair, “King in a castle. Very nice”. Seriously though, I feel very important right now.
I was asking Audeze, how much power it needs and they said that it is really easy to drive one headphone. Gave power calculator and list of recommended dac amps under $500 (I decided that I have to eat sometimes also). Now I’m even more confused. I have been watching a lot of test and reviews last days, trying to find perfect dac amp combination for my XC with SE cable and amps or combos I have been watching in specs seems to have enough power on SE output but in reviews they are described as ‘can drive most of headphones but for plannar it can provide not enough power’. So how is it really? LCD XC specs says it need 250mW power and is 20ohm. So even Topping Dx7 Pro should be good as in specs it says that gives 850mW per channel. Or do I read it wrong?
Btw. it is list of dac/amps I’m considering:
Topping Dx7 Pro
TOPPING D30 PRO + A30 PRO
Topping E30 + A90 PRO
Schiit Jotunheim 2
Schiit Asgard 3 + XLR cable
Burson Playmate 2
Ifi audio Neo iDsd
Now, I’m driving it by Sound blaster X G6 and it is aloud really but all soundstage is gone.
Any of the above should do better than the g6. but the noise you were experiencing may happen on any of them if it is the source (the computer) or the cable (the splitter) is the problem. Ruling those out would still be the best way to go. Example, an apple dongle ($9) with 3.5mm splitter to rca to a30 pro. If this is clean, then a30 pro is fine.
A qudelix 5k ($109) drives them reasonably well on balanced. I can’t say whether it would match the a30 pro experience but you won’t have the noise and would likely connect from your phone. I can say they did really well on the ifi iDSD signature.
FYI: the dx3 pro should do it fine as well. Usb → dx3 pro. It’s a combo unit. And I liked it a lot, but it didn’t drive some of my harder to drive headphones very well.
The sp200/m200 stack also does it well. (had other issues with it)
I always recommend buying the most power you can afford. On this list, I think the burson playmate 2 might be the most highly regarded sound quality. Bit pricey though (I am considering one myself currently)