DIY Audio Discussion - Headphone and Gear Mods


I derive a fair amount of enjoyment from modifying my gear. Headphones, amps, DACs, cables, etc.

I imagine there are some other folks here that do the same.

My most recent modification effort was replacing a bunch of caps, the DAC chips, and the input transformer on an MHDT Labs Istanbul DAC.

Here’s a gif of the transformation:

Anyone else have fun with modding?


Modding stuff is fun. I’m working on an angled T50 mod right now. The glow in the dark yokes and pads really get rid of some of the peakiness of the L300s.

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A lot of the headphones I use are modded. I’ve sent my HD800 to be painted so I’ve been roughing it with my modded stuff and frankenphones.

My daily driver lately is a frankenphone I’ve made with a T1 driver and DT770 frame. I spent a lot of time trying to boost the midrange with damping but eventually I just decided to embrace it and use the LCD2 as a tuning reference, but with much more bass. They make a fun complement to the HD800 and they’re kind of a “sleeper”

Measurements here:

I also have modded an OPPO PM2 usig BillP’s mods as a guide but diverged a bit. I don’t think they’re perfect by any means but they make nice portable headphones when I want to hear my surroundings. Measurements here:

I’m also continually working on modding a pair of Nighthawks but they may be sort of a lost cause.

What I’m most proud of is a headphone I cobbled together with TH900 drivers and a cheap Chinese headphone frame. It sounded awesome but the frame was terrible and the jacks failed. I’ve sent them off to a friend to do some mods of his own and I’m excited to see what I end up with.


Versus a real TH900:


Audeze LCD Headband Comfort Mod

This headband mod will add some much needed space between the leather suspended band and the metal headband, which can cause unnecessary hot spots on the top of your head.

This is what the mod looks like once you’re done. If you choose to, you can cut off the bit that hangs over and it will look essentially stock. (I will be doing this)

The flat face of the headphone yokes is facing forward. Remember this as it will be important for determining the order for reassembly. To remove the yoke from the collar, you must use a flat head screwdriver and gently turn the plastic screw at the top of the yoke. Again, this plastic so be GENTLE!

The metal collars that the yokes “click” through have a flat side which matches the flat side of the yoke.

This whole operation is much easier if your remove the yokes from the collars.

Use a phillips head screwdriver to remove the the four screws holding the headband to the yoke assembly.

The funny thing about these plates are that they both say L and R on either side so they can be mixed up or swapped and it doesn’t matter.

This is what the leather band will look like after making the new holes. The old holes are the sets farthest to the right (the top right, bottom right, second top row on the left and the second bottom row on the left). The new holes that you will make are as follows: Top left, Bottom left, Second Top hole inward, Second bottom hole inward.

To make the holes in the correct location, use the metal side plates as a guide. Line the bottom of the plate up with the top of the old holes and make marks through the metal plate’s hole onto the leather below. Then you can use an awl to pierce the new holes or if you happen to have a leather punch of the correct size, you can use that for a cleaner cut. Now reassemble, but make sure your yoke collars are in the correct orientation when you reassemble or you will have your R and L indicators on backwards.

Hope this helps! This mod made my LCD-2c feel so much more comfortable. Now I can wear them longer than 2 hours without getting a hot spot on the top of my head! :+1:


I also did the detachable cable mod to both my Beyerdynamic DT-770 pro and DT-990 pro headphones with great results. Very simple if you know how to solder.

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Did you find a good how-to for this that you would recommend?


I don’t have a step by step that includes pictures, but it’s pretty simple to accomplish. I will try to describe the process.

Tools needed:

  • Butter Knife
  • Dremel / expanding hole reamer
  • Soldering Iron
  • 60/40 Fine Solder
  • Hot Glue Gun
  • Lighter


  1. Pull off left ear pad.
  2. Use your butter knife to pry off the black inner ring. This is the only thing keeping your ear cup together.
  3. Disassemble speaker by turning over the ear cup and the speaker will fall out. Then remove the white plastic ring that is over the soldered terminals. (you may need to cut this piece to allow for room with your new 3.5mm jack later on).
  4. Cut the Red, Copper and Blue wires at the base of the cup where it exits the ear cup. (Leave the wires soldered to the terminals).
  5. Using your lighter, burn the colored coating off of the ends of the Red, Copper and Blue wires on the end that you cut.
  6. Remove the old cable by pulling off the metal clip that is holding it in place. This will leave a square hole.
  7. Dremel the square hole little bits at a time. Check to see if your 3.5mm jack will fit. If it doesn’t, dremel a little more, but be careful. You want the new jack to fit snug with the large flat terminal toward the interior of the cup.
  8. Use this photo to attach the wires in the correct order. (Red = Right Channel, Blue = Left, Copper = Ground)

Total transparency, I stole that photo from somewhere but can’t find the source now.

  1. Solder the wires to the correct terminals
  2. Cut the white plastic ring if needed to fit everything back into the cup. Do not force it.
  3. Plug it in to test.
  4. Once working correctly, open the cup back up and use hot glue to keep the 3.5mm jack in place.

That’s all there is to it!


I love the idea of a “sleeper” headphone. They look kind of cool, all roughed up, but if they sound like you say they do, that is an amazing combo. Great job! :):metal:


Nice stuff!

This isn’t headphone related (still audio, though!), but here’s a guitar pedal I built a couple of weeks ago. Snapped this before I cleaned the little DPDT board on the right and got annoyed at the burnt white input wire (replaced it).

And another I built sometime last year:


Thanks! I’m not going to pretend that they’re amazing, but they do the job pretty nicely considering how little work I’ve put into it. I’m going to try to reduce the bass a bit. But as of now, I think it sounds better (technicalities are less fuzzy, etc) than the two actual T1’s I’ve owned which admittedly isn’t a really high bar but it’s still a good feeling


Awesome… that’s perfect. Thank you man


Pimeta with Treads power supply. Used with my Sennheiser HD580.


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