EQ can certainly elevate the upper frequencies. Do you have experience with parametric EQs, specifically how to properly utilize them?
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The only equalizers I’ve ever used were for home audio systems. Whether I used them correctly or not I’m not sure. I just adjusted them by ear. The song Sweet home Alabama and female backup singers comes to mind. The part where they keep saying Alabama is very vague on my headphones. It’s a little easier to hear on my 6XX but still not distinct enough. On my home stereo it’s very distinct with the female backup singers. I tried different volumes on both pairs of headphones to no avail. Thanks!
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Could you give us the source (cd player, streamer, etc.) and dac you are using?
It might be the headphones are not the limiting factor but rather your dac and amp.
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Hi, I’m using a Marantz CD5004 CD player. I’m just using the outputs going to the inputs on the Liquid Spark amp. Thanks! I thought about running the CD player into and Adcom preamplifier I have. Then from preamplifier to headphone amp. I don’t know if that could be a plus or maybe a minus?
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More likely a minus than a plus, as you would be inserting a second potentiometer (volume control) into the signal path.
I’m guessing that you’re considering this in order to engage the tone controls on the preamp and see if that helps? Seems like a good experiment to run. IIRC most Adcom preamps had headphone outputs. If yours does, just plug your headphones into it and fiddle with the tone controls. If you hear a difference, then an equalizer might help.
Best wishes on that, and welcome to the forum!
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Have you ever used any sort of simple EQ app program where you can see the frequencies and decibels that you’re changing or has it mostly been analog tone control knobs that you’re used to? For the former, a lot of music services like Spotify will offer a basic EQ program you can play around with just to get a sense of it’s like. If you want to go a more in-depth, you’ll want something called EqualizerAPO + Peace EQ GUI. This is what most people would use for really fine tuning things but for your use case, I don’t think you need to go down this route yet.
I’d say start with something very simple like those offered by Spotify or other music services. Your phone might even have a basic EQ thing built into the system. For what you want to change, try looking for the following frequencies (or around there): 8 kHz, 12 kHz, and 16 kHz. Raise each by 3 dB one by one and see if you hear a difference. If not, raise by 6 dB. That’ll help you narrow down what you might be looking for in terms of treble output.
If you’re looking for the headphone route, I’d say maybe see if you can get a demo with some HiFiMan headphones. Something like the Edition XS, Ananda, or Arya. It’ll definitely be a different experience from the Sennheiser headphones so it might not be what you’re looking for but I think for some people their headphones just click for them.
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I just listened to Sweet Home Alabama on the HD560S and can hear the female vocals clearly.
The HD560S is in the ballpark with HD6XX but the HD560S is lower in technicals and does not scale (improve with better dac and amp) like the HD6XX and HD600.
I’m trying to say that if I can hear the vocals on the HD560S then the HD6XX should be making them clear also.
I’m using low/mid level gear - SMSL SU-9 dac and Schiit Asgard amp so nothing special.
If you can arrange to listen to your HD6XX on some different equipment it would be interesting to see how the vocals sound.
What @NickZ said, @Loner-55. I have the 6xx and there is a touch of the “Sennheiser Veil”. Your Liquid Spark has enough power for the 6xx, but it’s not notable for detail. If you are not using EQ on the 6xx, then I found that it improves with a more technical amp, and improves further with balanced connections (needs a different cord for that). It really comes alive with power and tubes on a mid-level tube amp.
But first you should try using some kind of EQ with it. If you don’t want to fool with software, then adding a Schiit Lokius can help a lot (The Loki can too, but I found that only 4 bands to play with was not optimal).
There are several typical types of EQ programs. The more basic will mimic the “graphic equalizer” you may recall from years ago. A bunch of sliders that raise and lower certain frequencies. Not really as useful as you might think. The ones to try are “Parametric” EQ. These let you specify a band and the shape of the EQ - peak, dip, shelf, floor.
They are often included with a music service like @Fc-Construct says. In addition to what he mentioned there is the powerful, confusing, and cheap Neutron Player. Any of the ones that say Parametric should be fine. You can then either experiment yourself, or use one of the pre-published presets for the HD-650/6xx. You can just type the EQ into the program. I suspect there are the required numbers here, or someone can point you to where to find them (published by Oratory…)
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Hello.
I’ve been using trueear Zero (blue) for a week now, but it feels like it’s missing something. My goal is to play games and listen to music. I can hear my opponent’s voice to my left, but I can be heard behind my left or in front of my left. I don’t know if it’s related to the depth of the scene or if it’s something I’m not used to. This is my first time using IEM headphones. Before this, I was using the Sennheiser HD700 and could locate opposing players as if I had placed them with my hand. It was an excellent headset. I live in Turkey and the conditions here are a bit harsh, I don’t think I can constantly try different brands and models. I want to evaluate it while the spring sales have started. Can you recommend me a nice model? My budget is $400, but if it’s a model you can go out and sit back with, I can be flexible as long as it doesn’t go over too much. I just want to put on my headphones and have fun. It will be connected to the Rodecaster Duo device and used. If you definitely recommend using an external DAC, I might buy it. Fiio K5 Pro is currently on sale on AliExpress. I think it will do the job and the device I use works really well. I would like to thank my friends in advance for sharing their opinions and suggestions
Hi! I have a few questions regarding some planars:
- What does it mean that the Edition XS is aggressively priced?
- What is the difference between Audeze LCD 2 and the one with Rosewood Fazors?
- I have been looking at the DCA Aeon Noire and I am wondering, if it has a generally laid, back and possibly dead-neutral tuning, is it worth giving double the price if I already have the Edition XS?
- If I listen to mostly heavy metal music and if I asked the previous questions because of this, what would be a good upgrade from the Edition XS, be it open or closed? I mean I would try some planars that could hit harder than the Edition XS and for this reason the Audeze LCD 2 gets recommended a lot. Should I choose that (I know how to EQ also) or is the DCA Aeon 2 Noire better for metal? Another thing, if the mids and treble are more important to metal than bass (mostly) does it mean that the Hifiman Arya could qualify also? It’s almost the same price as the previous ones…I have not managed to listen to these but what is exactly the difference between the Arya models, like V2, V3, Organic? I am familiar with characteristics of planars but I am more interested in their compatibility with metal and their general tonal balance, which regarding the Aryas in general are what I heard treble-intensive.
Thanks all!
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First things first: Welcome to the forum, Jonathan!
- The Edition XS is a hell of a value at $499. Even better at $399. Punches way above its weight.
- Fazors are triangle-shaped wave guides on the magnets that supposedly improve the sound. Both of the Audezes I’ve owned have had Fazors, so I don’t know what non-Fazor Audezes sound like.
- You described the Aeon Noire as “dead neutral.” I would describe it as “dead.” I owned it, and I think it’s overrated. Fuzzy top end, veiled mids. The Edition XS is a better headphone, period, although Noire is closed back and XS open back. Noire has much better build quality, though.
- The Audeze LCD-2C is excellent for metal and hard rock. Aggressive mids, so guitars REALLY bite. But the top end rolls off just enough so the sound isn’t fatiguing. Terrific bass with adequate sub-bass and mid-bass. Good boom and slam. I’ve owned a lot of cans, and the LCD-2C still is the best I’ve heard with the hard stuff. Sold my set last year to fund the purchase of another model, and it might be the only headphone offload I regret.
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And just to show you that we have a robust community (welcome @Jonathan22) and people who hear things differently, I found the Audeze LCD-2C to be unlistenable except when playing Mike Oldfield’s Tubular Bells. Above link is to entire discussion thread for the LCD-2C.
Horrible, ghastly inner resonance, echos off the ear cups. I got it for a review a few years ago and I just found it so bad that I even made a hash of the review. In particular I found solo classical guitar so bad I couldn’t listen. And I grew up listening to live solo classical guitar.
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That makes sense. The LCD-2C is a dark, warm headphone. Exactly what you don’t want for classical or solo acoustic! 
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I have a couple Audezes. Don’t buy them unless you are willing to EQ in software before listening to them. If you do, you will be rewarded with a listenable, if overweight, headphone.
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That’s a fair assessment.
I enjoyed my LCD-2C without EQ, but it was better with a smidge of sonic fixing. The LCD-X 2021, on the other hand, was nowhere near the worth of its $1,200 price tag without EQ. REALLY weird mids. With parametric EQ or convolution filters, it became a VERY good – if a bit dull – reference headphone.
Sold my LCD-X earlier this year to fund a purchase of a ZMF Aeolus. Zero regrets.
I just don’t get Audeze and its tuning philosophy. The mids are so damn weird on so many of its headphones, with excessive dips. But then Audeze sells the Reveal plug-ins – which are the same as the Audeze preset convolution filters in Roon – to “fix” its tuning.
Hey, Audeze staff, here’s a novel concept: Why not tune your cans properly before they leave the factory? It’s almost like they’re deliberately creating wonky stock tuning so they can sell more Reveal plug-ins.
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For me it isn’t Audeze - it’s the LCD-2C specifically. The closed back. I’ve heard other Audeze. I own their sort-of IEMs, iSINE20, LCD-i3 and LCDi4. All just fine. And I have a Rosson RAD-0, designed by one of the Audeze founders.
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Okay folks. Should I go full separates?
MJ3 solid state for planars and dynamics
DCA E3
Caldera
Full on OTL for high impedance dynamics (I guess it comes down to how well the planars sound on tubes)
Atrium closed
Aeolus
5th wild card wacky headphone like a grado or something might make an appearance lol. Rsx 1 or 2
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My condolences. Who died and left you a fortune, if you don’t mind my asking?
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Don’t worry I have a long term plan. I’m just doing recon.
I’ll get the caldera for my bday (I’m the only child). Selling LCD 2(2021) to go towards it.
Selling a th-x00 - brings down atrium closed to about $2000-1800 if it’s b stock.
Selling DCA noir closed back. With open box makes E3 1300-$900.
Selling lyr 2 + gsx Gilmore amp to go towards an mj3.
The tube amp will just be a tube amp. But not sure which one to get and will hurt the most.
I live below my means, don’t have a car note, don’t have any kids 
So everything hopefully for sources
Sony walkman (streamer/DAC)- wondering if I need a voltage booster.
Gumby 2
Amps
MJ3
Tube amp
Wishful thinking.
Tube DAC
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I decided to post this separately:
If I am considering buying a tube amp, what should I be careful about? Is it compatible with planars, including the Edition XS and what changes can I expect to hear when used? Is it true that it gives the headphone some really head-kicking punchy bass?
I heard an anecdote that you should never ever turn on a tube amp if the circuit is not closed. Does that mean connecting the headphone to the amp and THEN turning it on, and also making sure the amp is plugged into the computer before turning it on? I know, beginner question but I don’t want to fry my amp…
How much current is in a tube amp? If it zaps me, dumb question but am I in danger? At a local store, there was a speaker tube amp which also had headphone out and it was 2x 25 W, which the owner said, is like 200 W or 300 W when applied to a modern, class D amplifier. Is this true? What’s more, if I decide to buy that tube amp, again, will it be enough if I have headphones connected or must I also have at least a passive speaker connected to it before turning it on?
Thanks for your patience!
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