RAAL-requisite HSA-1b - Switch Drive Amplifier Review

Really a very impressive review! I wasn’t even aware of this site. I thought headfi, hifi guides, and ASR were the main go-to forums…but even a casual look through some threads shows great advice, activity, and stimulating convos. Either way I just signed up! I’m not sure if my question is better off here or the advice thread:

My setup is as follows. Raal SR1a + Utopia - Pass Labs HPA-1 + Jot R - Aqua La Voce S3 DAC.

I’ve been completely blown away by the sr1a (I got it last week). It truly is an experience all its own. I want to get the most I can out of it but wanted to know if it could effectively replace my pass labs (an amp I absolutely love). I would prefer to only have a single amp but I don’t know how the hsa-1b matches up to a high end ss amp.

Does the $4500 price represent what sort of ‘tier’ the amp is in? Or does part of that reflect its speaker function too…

Thanks!..and sorry for the long winded post

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Here is the right spot.

I suppose that depends on how “high-end” is defined. And I don’t really find the notion of “tiers” based on price to be terribly useful nor at all accurate.

For example, I feel the HPA-1 is somewhat overpriced for what it is. I think some of that is down to the front-panel/volume knob and the name. Not that it isn’t an excellent amplifier; it is, but I’ve heard units I thought bettered it technically and/or were more enjoyable for much less.

This, of course, is subject to personal preferences and biases.

The HPA-1 may be a better unit, technically, for a primary diet of regular headphones simply on the basis of its lower output impedance and higher power output. It’s a more neutral sounding piece. Where the HSA-1b has some color to it and more explosive dynamics.

I really like the Utopia from the HSA-1b. More so than I did from the HPA-1, though not as much as from various tube amps. That’s part synergy and part personal preference. If we were talking about, say, the Meze Empyrean, or an HE1000SE, I might lean towards the HPA-1.

It’s not clear to me if you’re running the HPA-1 as a pre-amp into the Jotunheim R, or are feeding both amplifiers directly from the dual outputs on your DAC. If it was me, I’d do the latter; I think the HPA-1 as a pre is not going to do what I’d want in combination with the Jotunheim R, especially compared to the HSA-1b.

But if you really want the BEST out of the SR1a, you’re back to using the interface box and MUCH more expensive speaker amplification.

As to the $4,500 price tag … you have to look at the overall functionality of a unit, and how much of that you’ll use, as well as qualitative factors and intangibles (e.g. how much single-box convenience is worth vs. cost or performance, aesthetics, form-factor) when considering price vs. value.

I can’t make those calls for someone else.

It was more than worth it to me to get close enough to my favorite solid-state amplifier (I’ve heard most of them at this point) that I wasn’t going to miss it with my collection of regular cans and was markedly preferable with the SR1a. Thus I shed a box and got a more compelling overall result into the bargain.

If you didn’t have the HPA-1 and Jotunheim R already, I’d say go for the HSA-1b. As is, you’re better off doing the home-trial with the HSA-1b and seeing what you think for yourself.

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Sir. Have you compared your Blu Mk2<Chord DAVE<Chord Etude<SR1A chain to the same chain but replacing the Etude with the HSA-1b?

Yes.

That was the first thing I compared.

I prefer the HSA-1b directly into the SR1a over the Étude via the interface.

I’m replacing the Étude with a Chord Ultima 5 and keeping the HSA-1b.

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the thing that I am not sure I understand is why given the relatively low power ratings that the hsa-1b drives my susvara as well as it does…in theory it shouldnt but it does a better job than many far more powerful amps I have heard

Thanks for the thorough response! Yeah I don’t use the hpa-1 as a pre-amp to the jot r. What do you mean by ‘home-trial?’ It’s a pricey amp and even though the dealer I bought the sr1a from has a 30 day return policy (with paid return shipping) I’d never want to inconvenience him by buying an amp that I may very well return…but like all other hifi stuff I’m not sure if it will be the right fit without trying it (the hsa-1b would replace my pass as well. Selling my pass before I know what the hsa-1b is like probably wouldn’t be wise).

There is no used market for the hsa-1b yet right? After seeing the price the sr1a/jot r was selling used I decided to just buy it new and get that 5 year non transferrable warranty.

Hi Torq. First of all thanks for the detailed review, it is much appreciated.

Is there any sound quality differences running SR1a by HSA-1a and HSA-1b despite the improvements by adding a stepped attenuator ? Thank you.

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RAAL-requisite offer a no-risk 14-day demo period. You pay return shipping if you don’t keep the unit. If your dealer offers a better deal there, better still.

Doing that for something you KNOW you’re not going to keep is one thing; it’s a shitty practice, often abused, especially by various “YouTubers” to get free/loaner gear for their “channel” (and that’s not what you’re doing).

Doing it as a demo/audition is part of why your dealer is getting a 30-45% margin on the product. If they’re not providing a proper demo/audition/comparison, then you should be getting a significant discount on the unit. Otherwise they’re adding no value (for a product you can buy direct) and you should cut them out of the chain*.

I don’t know, as I haven’t tried to sell one.

After the HSA-1b was announced, I listed my HSA-1a for sale and that was sold in 24 hours. And there is a definite backlog of HSA-1b orders.


*Some products are only available through dealers, which changes the percentages/model a bit, but personally I am not giving anyone 40% margin simply for accepting an order and shipping a box - haven’t in 30+ years and wouldn’t start now. Most dealers are very good about this, at least if you’re a regular customer, otherwise sometimes some will need a prod in the right direction.

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From my review (it might be harder to parse than it should be), I found the HSA-1b improved over the HSA-1a, driving the SR1a, in terms of better channel separation and lateral imaging, a more lucid/liquid and holographic midrange, greater refinement in the highest registers and the resolution took a step up.

Those elements were similarly improved with conventional headphones, and you also got better channel balance and a blacker background with normal cans too (i.e. that is in addition to the above).

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Thanks for the input Torq.

So other than the volume pot the electric circuit and components has also been changed?

There are various changes, in layout, parts, and so on. If you want specifics you’d need to talk to RAAL-requisite. I didn’t do a topology comparison nor a part-by-part tear-down.

Hi Torq.

1a has all the 1b updates possible for that unit. Other upgrades, like 24-step attenuators, are limited to component size due to chassis layout.

This is the official response from Raal.

That’s a bit vague … not that it bothers me either way - if it did, I’d ask Danny directly.

However, simply changing the layout of a unit can significantly impact various aspects of performance; be that noise, differential channel performance, EM/RF sensitivity/rejection etc.

Got it. Thanks for the detailed explanations Torq.

All the best.

I posted this question on the RAAL thread at Head-Fi but thought I’d post it here as well.

As I get within 2 weeks of ordering an HSA-1b for myself and in reviewing some of the information in the spec sheet and not being too tech-y inclined myself, I have question.

“There is no protection of output from short-circuit. As with high current peaks, output protection is often the cause of instability. All components were chosen to avoid oscillation and compensations are minimal, preserving speed and authenticity of presentation.”

  1. I suspect this would refer to an incorrectly-wired headphone or it’s connecting cable to the HSA-1b? (And it’s always a good practice to turn down the volume first.)

  2. It is not referring to plugging or un-plugging headphones with the HSA-1b unit on?

(I can’t imagine anyone connecting or disconnecting at the speaker or speaker outputs of the HSA-1b with it turned on. Intentionally, anyway.)

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I did get a response from someone on Head-Fi using the HSA-1b, no problems plugging or un-plugging phones with the amp on.

With any amplifier, I always turn the volume all the way down/mute it before connecting/disconnecting any TRS-style plug as these jacks will short the socket internally as they are inserted.

Most amplifiers won’t have an issue with it, but even those with short-circuit protection aren’t necessarily infallible in this regard. And some amplifiers are known to go “poof” pretty reliably if they’re playing, at volume, and you connect/disconnect cans from their TRS socket (e.g SPL Phonitor X/XE).

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I’ve never plugged or un-plugged any HP connectors with the amp on.Just the 4 pin or SE pin.

I don’t know what “SE pin” means.

Just to be clear, the TRS (or TRRS/TRRS) connections I’m talking about are the standard headphone connections, be they 2.5mm, 3.5mm, 4.4mm or 6.35mm (as found on the front of the HSA-1b).

4-pin XLR and dual 3-pin XLR headphone sockets are non-shorting, so there’s no issue there with any amp.

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SE for 1/4" type connector. So this type could be problematical?