I would suggest two simple inline attenuators, one for each channel. These can even be small and located behind the amp for a “set and forget” type situation.
You can DIY them pretty cheaply, just pick up two decent pots.
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Something like this Headphone attenuation adapter | DIY-Audio-Heaven
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No, I was thinking more of an attenuation pot, allowing fine adjustment and not just a fixed level.
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Search repeatedly brings up this Nobsound premium model with an Alps27 pot.
I’d plan to use either the left or right side and leave the other open. With this setup only one side could be adjusted, but I know it’ll be the left channel.
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I was thinking just buy the Alps pot, without the box or anything. Maybe I have made too many guitar effect pedals 
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I’ve thought of that, but at $46 I’m not sure if one could buy the pot, the case, the connectors, and the knob for much less.
https://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/Monitor1--behringer-monitor1-passive-stereo-monitor-and-volume-controller another $45 choice
Or just buy the pot and make your own Parts Express Speaker L-Pad Attenuator 100W Stereo 1" Shaft 8 Ohm
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How many dB are the channels levels off?
The Behringer has a lot of features for that price, and versus other items in the Big Knob pro-audio segment. I only wish it had 2xRCA instead of one 3.5mm TRS output. However, it has other uses too.
“A lot” – I have my receiver balance knob cranked to 3 o’clock (right). Unfortunately the right channel is both farther away and farther back. The sound isn’t bad at all after adjustment.
My friends… another question as I look for a solution to something specific.
What are the best (several options if possible as I know “best” is loaded) cans that will be at near full potential without any amplification whatsoever? In short, if you only had, let’s say, an iPhone and a set of headphones. . . what headphones would those be?
Also, no EQ allowed. The simplest quality setup you could muster with zero effort.
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While they won’t reach anything close to their full potential, it’s hard to beat the raw performance of Focal’s products without hardware support (e.g., Clear, Utopia). They are easy to drive.
If you mean “it’ll do its best on a phone and won’t get better under any circumstances,” perhaps the Sennheiser 5 series (e.g., Drop HD-58X).
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Was thinking the 560S might be an easy peasy way to go here.
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Regarding the 560s, I was asked the other day to recommend an upgrade under $500 that has better soundstage, detail and clarity.
I haven’t heard the 560s, so I have no idea what to recommend. I mean, I can mention headphones that I like but without hearing the 560s, it would just be a general rec without knowing if it actually improves those aspects.
For those of you that have heard the 560s, what would your suggestions be?
An IEM instead of an over-ear, specifically the 64 Audio U12T or something from Moondrop. Pretty much all full-sized headphones benefit from dedicated amps and DACs, even efficient, easy to drive ones, at least to my ears. Running one off just a phone won’t do it justice and will be a waste of money IMO.
But if you must, the AKG K371.
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Thanks.
Oddly enough, I am also looking at building out a more set, desktop space at the same time. Basically the other side of the coin. Looking into a good amp and dac stack to get me going.
Some pieces I have considered:
- Rebel Amp + BiFrost
- Burson 3x performance
- Valhalla (I know fuckalllll about tubes)
- Lyr (same as above)
Open to other ideas but would want to stay sub $2k.
Already have the iFi Signature, but think a desktop setup is the next step.
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I previously compared the RebelAmp, Lyr 3, and THX AAA 789 in detail. Well, I compared the Rebel and Lyr 3 but quickly realized the 789 is…unpleasant. Mine is in a box on a shelf.
You won’t know if you like tubes until you try them, and one tube amp is not like another tube amp. Each tube varies and the amp can transform with a tube swap, or not change much at all. Some tube amps are effectively identical to solid state amps, while others are heavily distorted in either a good way or a bad way.
I recommend splitting your strategy between a DAC and amps. The BF2 is an easy choice for a $2K budget. That leaves you with $1,300 for amps. You could get the Rebel and Lyr 3 with change left over.
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Such a useful read I hadn’t seen!! Thank you! I understand I will need to get a power cable for the Rebel Amp. Any advice?
Thanks. I have a $40-$50 Pangea 14 gauge cable now. It’s overkill and I didn’t hear any change versus my $2 drawer-dwelling cheapie. Remember that the cable is just the last few feet after coming through standard wall wiring. Any $10 to $15 cable will suffice, unless you like to mess around or want something that looks cool.
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I previously had a Bifrost 2-Lyr 3 setup and have nothing negative to say about it, but the class A sound of the Burson Soloist 3XP, along with it’s versatility, moved the Lyr 3 to a storage shelf. A lot of it is personal preference.
The Lyr 3 synergized really well with my Focal Stellia, but there seemed to be something missing when I got my ZMF Verite. The Verite sang on my Pendant tube amp but I preferred the Stellia on the Lyr 3 to the Pendant. The Burson was the first amp that I liked with both headphones. And that’s been true of every other headphone I’ve tried, except for the Empy, which is notoriously fussy about which amp it’s paired with.
I don’t think I’ve seen a Rebel - Burson Soloist comparison. If they’re close, then the lower price of the Rebel makes it a no brainer.
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Very useful! Was also considering the Burson stuff, specifically this one – simply since its in stock, unlike the Soloist.