I see here after looking into the ferrite rings, they are attachable to any cable.
A reputable company with great prices is Palomar Engineers. With provided information for frequency and variety of sizes.
I spoke to one of the sales reps and he said ferrite doesn’t go below the blocking range of DC I believe he said which is 60hz, so I’m not sure if that covers the noise coming out of the computer.
Hate to burst your bubble, everything has noise. Electrical noise, RF noise, neighbors dog barking, etc…
Take action and try something out, reading your posts and questions it appears that you are in analysis paralysis.
Enjoy the music.
I’ve been in paralysis since I started audio enthusiasm
There’s a reason why beginners tend to start with entry level equipment. Myself included. 
And after almost 1 year in the hobby, I have my own set of tools that prove myself I made the right choices while respecting my own budget.
My objectivism has this “if-I-don’t-hear-and-it-does-not-bother-me–I-simply-don’t-care” threshold. And this is something I bet everyone develops one way or another.
To conclude. It’s much easier than it seems.
Cheers.
Noise/defects that you can’t hear can’t hurt you. Perhaps try to focus on experiencing/enjoying the music first and if you find your gear is lacking, you can then address and rectify.
Hands down, I totally agree. Just wanted some feedback. I am certain there’s a lot of different variables. Just trying to learn, I’m definitely not trying to pay 200 extra, let alone 450 for something that’s probably unnoticeable to someone that’s inexperienced as myself.
Second, I’ve seen someone using a custom built pc for audio only. They’ve integrated Roon and other players into that setup and it probably cost them a 100 dollars. So I’m just putting the puzzle pieces together is all.
Just seeing the validity of this claim.
Indeed, unfortunately I haven’t had the opportunity. Still don’t have a dac or amp. Just trying to learn.
Picking up my temporary dac/amp on Saturday so I can finally begin to enjoy the music!
I guess I’ll be able to answer my own question by then.
Glad to hear you’ll be in business on Saturday upon picking up a dac/amp! Curiosity and wanting to make the right decisions/selections are a good thing. Audio can be as technical or challenging as we want it to be. Embrace the journey, process, struggle, independent discovery - and it may be that much more satisfying.
AC mains power cycles at 60hz in the US. I believe that’s what he meant. Not DC.
I emphasize human perception over data. People have sensory limitations, they predictably experience illusions (vs. measurement tools), and they simply exclude or reprocess conflicting data to resolve ambiguity. These principles have been researched for many decades – the debates between objective and subjective standards might be resolved with a proper budget and appropriate research method.
Don’t worry much about what you pay – worry about residual value and how easily it might be sold on the secondary/used market. A hot product like the Bifrost 2 ($699) would sell used in a flash for probably $600+. The Loki can be had for $129 as B-stock, and could be sold for the same price. You could also pick up a used set of Focal Utopias ($4K retail) for under $2.5K – and then resell for the same. Purchasing can involve mere rental costs.
On the other hand, freshly released products often have aggressive or fantasy pricing to capture the hardcore/impulse market – you’ll lose a lot of money in the best case. For example, the AudioQuest NightHawk came out around $700 (and was overpriced). It became a better deal in its close-out phase (e.g., $250 to $400), and holds a higher percentage of the lower up-front cost. Selling any item from an obscure or faddish brand that’s a few years out of date may be impossible for a reasonable return (e.g., 25% to 50% of retail at best).
All electronics depreciate, and most will eventually die. Audio depreciates more slowly than PCs, phones, and tablets.
Just for laughs😂
Analysis Paralysis 3:06
I’m super happy, this is a grand listening experience, buddy let me borrow the ifi Nano BL. PC already picked it up and installed the drivers.
Supertramp Fool’s Overture playing, sounds amazing. No Hiss. Feels like the instruments are zoned out from 10 to 2 o’ clock and 11 to 1. Didn’t sound like that very much at Schitt. Computer is showing playback as 32 bit 48khz, not sure if that’s a factor.
Glad you got things going.
You’re all set so no reason to have to change things around.
A few months ago, this forum helped me decide on purchasing the Sundara (and very happy with them). Hoping you can help me with my next purchase. I am trying to decide if I should purchase an amp (like Schiit Magni or an iFi Zen Can) or a new DAC / AMP combo (iFi Zen DAC).
I listen to Rock and Classical on Tidal (MQA where possible) and am using a Dragonfly Black on PC and phone. In addition to my Sundara, I also use FiiO FH7 IEM and Grado SR80e. My daughter has the same setup, but she has the Sennheiser 6XX and Grado SR80e and is also looking for what is next.
Option 1 is to continue to use my Dragonfly Black but connect it to a dedicated amp. Not sure if that will improve my sound though. The Dragonfly is already plenty loud since I am listening currently at volume 2 on my PC with Tidal (exclusive mode to take advantage of MQA where available). I am not sure I understand the difference between volume and power of an amp (voltage / watts). Reviews say the 6XX needs a powerful amp to sound good, but the Dragonfly drives the 6XX loud enough without even having to get to 50% volume.
Option 2 is to upgrade to a better DAC / AMP combo like the iFi Zen DAC. I also considered the iFi Hip DAC, but not really interested in a battery powered device that will degrade in a few years. Not sure if this will be a step up from current setup although I realize will have a slightly different sound based upon the different Burr Brown chip. I lean to the combo because of the ability to move around the house with it (PC or phone).
I am interested in people’s thoughts. Maybe it is better to wait, save my money and upgrade to the next level up (and more expensive) DAC and amp.
Glad to hear things worked out with your Sundara.
I prefer separates over combos. Separates generally have a higher potential/ceiling for sound quality and allow for incremental separate unit upgrades, which can save money in the long term. Combos can save money in the short term including on cables, avoid DAC and amp pairing, and have a neater footprint.
I think of things in terms of identifying the weakest link in your chain. Here, your Dragonfly Black appears to be a capable DAC, but wanting as an amp. An improved amp will likely sound more open and dynamic with wider soundstage and imaging, less congested and compressed - these are beyond volume aspects.
It depends on your budget, preference for separate vs combo, preference for solid state vs tube, valuing sound quality vs portability, whether you need battery powered capability. I’d advise against getting hung up on balanced vs singled ended at this stage.
For separates, in ascending cost take a look at the Magni 3+, Vali 2 with upgraded Electro-Harmonix 6CG7 tube, and Asgard 3.
Once upgrading to those amps, the weak link in your chain will be your DAC. In ascending cost, there’s the Modi 3, Modius, and Modi Multibit.
For combos, there’s the Asgard 3 with DAC module, and the JDS Labs Element 2. I prefer these over the iFi amps in this price range where sound quality is valued over portability. Where portability is a priority, the iFi products are a good option and I have a Nano BL myself.
Good luck. See link below. The headphones.com site has other articles that I’ve found helpful.
I agree entirely and heartily with @bpcarb’s excellent advice. I’ll add two thoughts.
If both you and your daughter are seeking upgrades simultaneously, you might like to try to two different amps for the sake of variety and experimentation: I should think the Magni 3+ would work well with your headphones and IEM (use the low gain for your IEMs!!!); your daughter’s HD 6XX would pair very nicely with the Vali 2. But then I’m not sure if the Vali 2 would work as well for your Sundara or FH7 (but it might?). You could get one of each and see how you get along with different combinations. Both are affordable and Schiit offers a decent return policy - you could send which ever one back you like the least for a refund, minus 15% restocking fee so long as it’s within 15 days of receiving your amp.
Alternatively, you could save some extra cash by purchasing b-stock from Schiit. Right now you could get an older version of the Magni, the 3 (not the plus) for $69, or the Magni 3+ itself for $89. (I have the 3 and love it). The b-stock will have cosmetic flaws and won’t qualify for the 15-day return policy.
Amps have more of an impact than DACs, and you may not understand the benefits until you try something more powerful than the Dragonfly series. Even very weak amps will play “loud,” but they tend to not generate clean or deep bass, a stable image, or control distortion very well. I’d start with a new amp.
We had a similar discussion in this forum a while ago between @pennstac and @Torq. @pennstac was using a Dragonfly but eventually switched to the Schiit Lyr 3 (a large, powerful headphone amp). Having more than enough power in the amp makes some headphones come alive. The Sennheiser 600 family is famous for benefiting from better and better and better amps. Planar headphones also suck down gobs of power.
I bought a Schiit Magni 3+ expressly for use with planar headphones (Dan Clark AEON Flow Closed or AFC), but never liked the original Magni 3 myself. The Magni 3+ does add a fullness and stability to my AFC. I find it to be too bright with my Sennheiser HD-600, and turn down the treble.
A new DAC in the $100 ballpark may change the nuances, [EDIT] but is a secondary consideration after the amp upgrade.
Precisely the quandry I was in maybe 2 years ago. @Torq kept telling me - and illustrating what the power delivery of my DFB was, and why it was not really adequate for the HD-6xx. I was obstinate. I thought it did a dandy job. The HD-6xx/HD-650 is a curious beast. You don’t need that much power to DRIVE it to a loud enough level for general listening. You need the power to give better control to the dynamic drivers. Nowhere does Sennheiser really admit this. But when I upgraded my amp power - first using the iFi xDSD, and later with the Schiit Lyr 3, the HD-6xx sounded like a much better headphone. Bass was much tighter. Everything is cleaner and more precise. It just is. Almost all people who have tried more power - even when not louder - have found this is so with this particular headphone.
One other issue with ALL Dragonflies (Dragonflys ?) is that the are DAC/AMPs and do NOT have a real line-out mode. Again I was schooled by @Torq, and again, he was 100% correct. Trying to drive an amp with a DFB (or even my other Dragonfly, the Cobalt - I like them for their appropriate use) is just running an amp at the rails into another amp.
You will do better to find something that has a true line-out mode. I sometimes run the xDSD in line-out mode connected to the Lyr 3, for example. It sounds very good with the HD-6xx.
This is just a comment on your post. I’m not commenting on options or solutions. But I know from personal experience the little gotcha’s of the DFB. (1.2 volts output - yes, @Torq I remember).
Hello from a newish member…and a question. At home I’m playing music through my MacBook Pro with a pair of Audio-Technica ATH A700X’s (which I love), but I have no experience with any other decent headphones. Outside the house, just my iPhone and basic Apple earbuds that come with the iPhone. I’d like to move up to something wireless and wondering if available options with noise cancelling will allow me to listen to music while running a lawn mower or weedeater? With a modest budget and no idea if something like Audio-Technica ATH-ANC300TW’s, Sony WF1000XM3’s or Sennheiser Momentum True Wireless 2‘s will work for that, or do I need to go with something over the ear like the Sony WH-1000XM4…but I don’t know if those will even work for that kind of noise protection? I’d appreciate any thoughts or guidance…
Thanks in advance,
Kenn