Would you mind sharing your top 3 (or top 2) hp for classical music (I list to the the whole range: chamber, orchestral, opera). Would it still be the SR1a and the Verite?
I have the Clears, whose resolution I especially love for baroque, and am trying to figure out where to go from here. Thanks again for all the reviews and info you have posted.
Thatâs pretty easy ⊠if it is PURELY for classical music then:
And then itâd be Focalâs Utopia and the HD800S.
The moment you add any other genre, then the first two positions go back to:
Thanks very much! And yes, basically purely classical music.
Can you please share your favorite Verite Open pads for classical music?
Whatever is on them at the time.
I donât swap them around very often. Most of the time itâd be the VĂ©ritĂ© Lambskin (Perforated).
Okay thanks. I donât swap around the pads on my Eikon too often either now that Iâve explored and gotten a sense of each of them.
Torq
Did you ever get an opportunity to compare the Verite open to the Utopia which I owned but sold?
Thanks
Yes, in my original Vérité review.
I still own both.
Thanks, Iâll go read it now.
My upcoming Vérité Closed LTD (stabilized maple burl, sea-green/blue w/ rose gold rods and black magnesium chassis) sale is presenting me with something of a dilemma.
Specifically ⊠how to sell them.
Nominally, my intent is to sell them for what I paid for them, plus actual shipping and fees. Theyâre a set that Zach used as a demo at the last in-person CanJam, so technically they were used whenI bought them, and thereâs a small, hidden (under the yoke), stable wood-check on them from their original manufacture.
So I got them for less than than they finally went on sale for. When theyâre available they sell for $2,999 new; I got my set for $2,500 (again, theyâre used etc.).
The dilemma occurs because ever since I posted the first picture of them, Iâve had a multitude of unsolicited offers to buy them, most at much higher prices (some flat out insane) than new, as well as a slew of inquiries and offers since I mentioned, here, a few days ago that I had finally decided to let them go. No doubt a lot of that interest has stemmed from how quickly the two batches that were recently released by ZMF sold through.
So ⊠options âŠ
The first, and simplest, is, of course, to just list them for sale, on the usual first-come-first-serve basis (or, at least, first to complete the transaction; I wonât be âholdingâ these for anyone that cannot pay immediately).
I could message everyone that has made offers simultaneously, and do first-come-first-served there. Thatâll probably be a ton of hassle since there are undoubtedly a fair number of asshats in that unsolicited-offer list that will try and create all manner of fake drama (private or otherwise) if they donât âwinâ.
I could go through all the emails/PMs, in order of being contacted, of those that have made offers in the past and take the first of those that can complete the transaction. On one hand, that is more time and effort on my part and would be rewarding the precocious; on the other theyâd be paying what they originally offered or Iâd move to the next person in line.
I could do a short, silent auction.
Iâll decide in the next couple of days, but am leaning towards the first option for simplicity and lack of potential drama.
I should also note, for this particular item, anyone not personally known to me will have to have appropriate trade feedback, and good fuss-free reputation, or I wonât sell to them at all (or itâll have to be an in-person cash deal*).
*With the last set of ZMFâs I sold, which were exactly as they came from the factory, the buyer made a big fuss over a tiny machining mark, only visible under magnification, and Iâm not dealing with that nonsense again.
I hate people who think, they have a right to complain and fuss over something I sell. They can see the condition and the price and either they say yes and then shut up or leave.
With that said, I think you should do it the most hazzle free way for you. So for me that would be to list them at a given price and then let the first be the one. I would just be clear about how the condition is and that they are bought as is.
This is also why I rarely sell anything, I just canât be bothered by people who wants to haggle or who are a pain in the butt. So I kind of understand the struggle.
Good luck with the sale, I hope it will be as easy as possible.
Most people are totally reasonable about this. But thereâs âalways oneâ ⊠(even if theyâre just an asshat thatâs trying to get a post-sale discount knowing that PayPal invariably sides with the buyer regardless of whoâs truly in the right).
And PayPal cares not for such statements, hence why Iâll be sticking to local, in person, cash sales if Iâm not 100% sure the buyer isnât going to go down the âwhiny entitled gitâ path the last one I sold a ZMF headphone to did.
Could you instead go through the emails/PMs to see if thereâs anyone you know to be asshat- and hassle-free to deal with? Youâd be rewarding precocity, sure, but arguably youâd not be setting a precedent if no one knew about it (or is this what you mean by a silent auction?).
(If anyone thinks Iâm trying to inveigle my way into buying these headphones, Iâm not: Iâm saving for a pair of the open VĂ©ritĂ© and, besides, my piggy bank is clatteringly low on coins at the moment; Iâm a couple of years away from getting a ZMF headphone).
THOSE are the ones I want to avoid!!
The âsilent auctionâ would simply be me saying âsubmit bids via PMâ, taking the highest after 24 or 48 hours, and with the delta over $2,500 going to straight charity (local pet-rescue, zoo or aquarium).
I like your silent auction idea. Especially with the charity angle.
Itâs a tragedy that selling off highly desirable gear can be such a pain. You are not the first person I have seen express such sentiments in these forums.
Hereâs another option ⊠semi-private sale:
This method advantages:
In other words, building credibility has rewards and opens doors. Life should be that way.
This is why silent auctions can be nice. Even if said asshat submits the highest bid, you can still pick another with better reputation.
I also found it helpful to clearly state things like âused item sold as is, no returns/refunds, if you have condition questions/concerns, ask before buyingâ.
I agree, selling gear is a pain in the arse. I find it very stressful. Iâve mostly had good selling experiences because I am honest about the listing and always keep my gear in pristine condition. Though there is always somebody that is extra pick after the sale who come back weeks later and says thereâs an issue. Hence why I dislike selling so much.
Although itâs rare, I have sold stuff in perfectly good shape, and been informed there was a problem. Tested, and ohmed with a VOM. Last year I sold a couple of cables to a guy on USAM. He listed one set of ICs that I sold him for sale immediately, and he wanted a refund on the other (SPDIF coax cable) saying it was shorted. We talked on the phone and his story changed from encountering low volume on the cable, to being shorted, to being intermittent. It was fine when I sent it to him, and dead when I got it back. He either swapped it for his own bad one or pulled the wires loose from mishandling. I refunded his money. Inspected the cable and the ground was completely detached. Repaired the cable and its in my rack now.
Bad experience with that transaction since no doubt in my mind the cable was damaged or swapped out. I blocked the clown from buying from me again.