I have the same experience with stepped attenuators, often unable to click into “just right” volume level. A nice TKD volume pot or something would have been just as well…
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Has anyone tried to use the speaker output on the back of hsa-1a? Is it powerful enough to drive Rogers ls3/5a 15 ohm speakers?
That’s a low efficiency speaker (really needs at least 30W, and more is better … was decent via a vintage 40W Creek amp). The HSA-1a will give you about 5W into their 15 ohms … I think that’s going to be a major stretch …
Thank you so much for the information. Will think again before purchasing a vintage pair.
With the departure of my Phonitor X (already missed …) I’ve been putting some serious focus on the HSA-1a driving conventional cans … in advance of selling it to make way for the HSA-1b.
I still think this thing kicks like a mule. The impact, is amazing. It might lose out on that last % or two in terms of absolute detail or subtlety when running normal cans (because it certainly doesn’t when driving the SR1a), at least vs. the best solid-state options in that role, but its an amazingly energetic and engaging listen.
Anyway, don’t be surprised if you see this listed for sale shortly … but it’ll be because I want the minor usability tweaks that accompany the HSA-1b (e.g. front-panel switch for turning compensation on/off, which you want to do when running normal cans from it vs. the SR1a) and not any lack of faith or enjoyment of/in my SR1a setup.
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Hi Torq. Do you know when will hsa-1b be up for sale? By the way Danny hasn’t been returning any text messages, is he doing alright?
I’ve heard nothing official about when the HSA-1b will be up for sale explicitly (rumors have suggested mid-August, but those didn’t come from RAAL) but I did notice that its now listed on the main RAAL-requisite site.
I haven’t spoken with Danny in a couple of months. A quick exchange with David earlier in the week had him suggesting I give Danny a call, which I’ll do on Monday (didn’t have a chance at the time).
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Interestingly, they listed the ability to drive two SR1as as one of the features of the HSA-1b but I still don’t see how…unless the 4-Pin XLR Conventional Headphone output is similarly spec’d as the Ribbon HP output and they provide a revised adapter (4 Pin XLR Male to Male). We shall see…
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I think that’s just left over copy from the HSA-1a details … they probably just missed updating that line. Looks like there may be a couple of other bullets to add also.
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the question for me is how capable an amp will it be for the likes of a susvara or abyss TC?
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Qualitatively and technically, while I rank it an 11/10 for driving the SR1a (only bested by very expensive speaker amplifiers), it’s probably an 8/10 vs. the best conventional headphone amplifiers (it has superlative grip and impact, but perhaps loses a little in terms of refinement and micro-detail on the top end - odd because it certainly doesn’t lack there WITH the SR1a).
Power-wise it’s got enough grunt to fry the AB-1266 Phi TC and still have headroom left, coupled with a lot of low-end drive and impact, major current delivery and a very stiff power supply (given that it’s a speaker amp at its core).
For the Susvara, it’ll be flat out at 114 dB/SPL (that’s permanent hearing damage in 30 seconds), though still with remarkable grip and impact.
It’s a relatively easy high-end call for primary SR1a usage, or even dedicated SR1a usage - since there’s not a better option I know of for under $7,500 (and that’s a pure speaker amp and just barely edges out the HSA-1a … you really need to step up another level to make it worth it). But if most of your listening is with other cans, then you either want an high-end conventional amp for those, or be willing to give up that last few % of raw performance.
Put another way, even at the new asking price of $4,500 … I can’t think of any combination of conventional headphone amplifier and speaker/direct drive amplifier that will realize the same net level of capability across both SR1a and normal cans that doesn’t require a) greater expenditure b) more boxes and c) messing around with source switchers.
Only way to know for sure, of course, is to try it with the array of cans you plan on using it with.
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I had the same question and when I learned about HSA-1a’s capability to drive conventional headphones and hard to drive ones using the ribbon HP output, it was an easy decision to acquire the amp.
Since then, I’ve been using the Susvara with the HSA-1a for solid state duties and the WA33 for tubes. The HSA-1a replaced a Phonitor X + Performer s800 power amp combo that was used for solid state duties for the Susvara.
The HSA-1a is indeed capable of driving the Susvara with great control and grunt. Jumping from the PX+s800 (and the WA33) to the HSA-1a the most noticeable reduction in performance are on the soundstage which gets reduced (depth and width) and midrange loses a bit of weight (more noticeable me with voices than instruments). The bass texture and extension is on par with the WA33 and it has more impact, it hits really hard. The PX+s800 combo wins in terms of overall control as expected due to the amount of raw power feeding the cans.
Ultimately, only your ears will tell if the combo is satisfactory for your needs, for me the level of performance along with the benefits of reduced number of boxes and a more streamlined rig makes the HSA-1a a solid offer at $4,500.
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I’m looking forward to the comments here when folks here start getting the most current HSA-1b versions off the assembly line in hand. Especially the thoughts on the new stepped volume control.
Anyone else who signed up for the HSA-1B waiting list get a shipping notice from RAAL?
HSA-1b in the house. Differences between the HSA-1a and HSA-1b can be seen in the pictures below. There are also some internal differences, one of them being the addition of internal dip switches to adjust the input sensitivity - probably to accommodate both the consumer/audiophile and professional/studio input requirements.
In a nutshell, it feels and sounds like a major improvement over the HSA-1a both from the SR1a and the conventional headphones outputs. The latter part is a game changer for streamlining my desktop rig. Mature impressions to come later…Now back to listening!!!
PS: To my ears, both the HSA-1a and HSA-1b are significantly better than the JotR but not 5x better as the price difference may suggest. I think that for one to match or beat the HSA-1b performance, he/she would need to get deep into $15k+ speaker amps to get the similar levels of transients, speed, decay, dynamics, stage, detail retrieval and overall coherency of the sound.
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Nice to see the bs are finally in. I have been on the waiting list for a couple months now. Hopefully my name comes up soon.
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Do you find the 24 steps of the attenuator adequate to fine tune the volume level?
It depends on the input sensitivity selected on the internal dip switches. As of today, I’ve not received any information from RAAL-requisite about how to configure those and the amp came without a manual.
I’ve switched OFF all dip switches assuming that I’m not altering the input sensitivity and with this setting I consider the volume too low for the SR1a up until 8-9 (10 O’ clock). Sensitive conventional cans such as Utopia and Stellia get loud at 9 O’ clock and dangerously loud at around 12 O’clock.
As for channel balance, my unit is spot on with both channels from 0 to 100% with all dip switches OFF. I won’t comment on other various configurations with dip switches ON prior to discussing with RAAL-requisite as I’m not informed enough to do so.
As for the quality and feel of the knob, I prefer this one over the one that came on my 1a. The latter felt flimsy on my unit and this one is more premium and pleasing to turn. I wish they had a programmable motorized version so that I could use a remote control on my late night relaxing listening sessions.
On a side note, the conventional HP output on the 1b seems more powerful than 1a, it drives the Susvara and 1266 TC without breaking a sweat with the volume knob at around 13-16 (1-2 O’clock). I don’t see the need to use the SR1a output (with the provided adapter) with those cans anymore. Again this is with all dip switches OFF!
Volume knob pic for reference:
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These dip switches are internal so one would have to lift the lid to adjust them?
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Internal, you have to unscrew the unit and open it up! Unnecessarily painful imo but it’s a one-and-done thing, once you set your preferred input sensitivity you’re done for good unless you change the upstream gear and feel like tweaking the input sensitivity.
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