The Off Topic: PC peripherals, custom Keyboards, Mice etc

So here’s a lesson learnt that I’d like to pass onto others that are starting out on the journey to build custom keyboards. If you buy individual keycaps, check the shape and size.

First, the required shape of the key will depend on where you want to place it, e.g. an escape key on the back row has a different shape to the Ctrl key on the front row. You’ll see codes like ‘R1’ and ‘R4’ which I think represent the back and the front row respectively, although I’ve also seen some vendors use those terms in the opposite way.

Second, figure out what size key you need. I actually didn’t know there were different sizes, so when I ordered this purple keycap from Drop to replace my escape key, I had no idea that my current keyboard uses cherry keys (which is different from cherry switches) and this Drop key is ‘SA’, which is a lot taller. And since I bought it out of ignorance, Drop won’t take it back, which is fine - I was the one who made the error, so I’ll treat it as a $35 lesson. I’ll ask my son if he wants it on his gaming keyboard, and if not, I’ll see if anyone on the forum is interested in it (no charge, except maybe a couple of dollars to cover a padded envelope and postage).

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I like it ha! I’ll pick it up from you if your son doesn’t want it ha!

I posted this in the wrong Off Topic Because I searched and replied to an @PaisleyUnderground post that pre-dated this branch. Copied here. I Like @PaisleyUnderground’s reply, but I’m looking for a full-size keyboard with a numeric pad.

Please reply here

How did this turn out? I have some questions for you and @TylersEclectic about these keyboards.

I’ve been very happy using the Logitech K740 illuminated wired keyboard. I’ve had one fall apart after about 8 years of beating on it, and I have another one where some of the keys require well, beating on them to make them work. I have 5 more that I use all the time. I probably could just vacuum, and then wash the thing off. Probably can get away with some dishwasher liquid, dry it out. We have a good water softener with a charcoal filter, but maybe I could even pour some distilled water to rinse before drying.

As I’ve said before, I really like this keyboard. I don’t game; I type. Logitech designed this keyboard for typists. It’s not clicky - I don’t mind a little click, but I don’t want to sound like an Underwood Manual typewriter. Oh yes, I learned on an old Royal Portable, and an Underwood Model 5 manual, and honed my skills in the incomparable IBM Selectric Mark II. So I like good feel, and just a tad more pressure and throw than the Logitech Illuminated has. But it’s the best I’ve found in years. I do like to have backlit keys.

On the other hand, I’ve yet to try any of these mechanical keyboards. I’ve started to read up on them, and the one that seems to come closest to my needs is this one:

But I suspect I’d rather have the 55G keys, and it appears from a review that it does not have very strong LED backlight, and they also say that PCB keys are better than ABS ones. I’m not very price sensitive, but I don’t care to spend $260 or so on something that is only marginally better than my Logitech.

I do want a full-size keyboard (Did I mention its for typing?) and would like the numeric pad. This is to go with a Windoze laptop. It’s my primary keyboard. Not desperate. I can snap up another Logictech keyboard from one of the little-used machines and give it the one that requires some hammering too.

So, what to y’all say or think? Is there some sort of kit? Where order a la carte? Is that easy?

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I still think the GMMK is a good one to try for a first mechanical keyboard, because it’s easy to “fix” if you don’t like the switches. And they offer 3 sizes, including full-size with numeric keypad, all at the same price.

I find it much better to type on than my old Logitech. I’m not sure what you would get with more expensive keyboards, since they all use the same switches and keys, so I can only imagine the cases are made of better materials.

If you find that the keys are a little too light for you, then I’d recommend getting a switch tester with a variety of different weights. The testers are dirt cheap, and I found mine to be really helpful to sort through the potential confusion of tactile vs non-tactile, heavy vs light etc.

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This is a great jump off/end point ha!

For “higher end” custom boards, really it’s more about customization and materials… you can Lube and film switches… huge pita but makes them ever so better… but isn’t necessary.

Most custom boards are all about the case materials and custom pcb boards.

@dRnRcR, @driftingbunnies, @voxkey, @KneeDeep and many others are way more knowledgeable about custom boards than I

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When I cheked the GMMK site, I found all full size sold out. Let me know how your Glorious Panda switches work out, and the level of difficulty (PITA-ness) of swapping switches.

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Any Thoughts on NAS?

Recently I pulled my Netgear R6400 router and replaced it with a TP-Link Deco M9 Plus 3 unit mesh system, plus a switch for extra Ethernet ports. The one thing the Netgear had was a USB-attached drive “Readyshare”. TP-Link’s Deco system doesn’t yet support a USB drive, although they say it will come via a firmware update (there is a USB port on each mesh unit).

Over the years I’ve considered adding NAS, but never pulled the trigger. AUDIO CONSIDERATIONS - I have SONOS but no real media streamer (I don’t count what comes with Windows). It’s possible that I may pick up something in the future, but not that likely. If I did, it might be the Wyred4Sound unit, or something to run a ROON core.

NON-AUDIO considerations - I have Windows PCs and at least one Mac on my network, and will probably repurpose an old PC to run Linux again. (My last linux box finally died). Have both android and iOS tablet & phone devices, plus a ROKU.

In the past year or two I’ve stopped running a website, poking holes in my home firewalls, and screwing around with content management systems, but that’s no guarantee that I might not want to have the “personal cloud” ability to grab files in the future. I spend a fair amount of time away from home at the house my wife inherited in State College. (but I haven’t built an audio stack for that house… it also has SONOS, but no permanent computer).

So. . . the question goes out. Does it make sense for me to add maybe 4 to 8 TB of NAS storage? I’ve been backing up Mac and Windows to USB hard drives. It would be nice to move my audio files, including iTunes to something easily accessed all over.

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I put a 16TB nas on my network, and I can’t see how I can ever go back. I might do it a little different next time, probably build my own instead of going QNAP, but still. Being able to dump excess files onto it to keep my SSDs on my PC from overflowing, having actual backups of my PCs, having a central location for all my music, running PLEX off it so I can access everything everywhere… You get the picture.

Worth it.

If you go with a prebuilt nas (Synology, QNAP, etc) look to the internet for detailed guides on how to trim the fat. Those things come with more bloatware than my last Android phone. They usually have pretty cheap processors as well, so getting one with a beefy CPU is a good idea IMO.

Your Roon core doesn’t need to run on the NAS itself, obviously. Getting a simple little NUC with Linux to run Roon and PLEX and what ever else will suffice quite nicely, so long as it can address the storage on your Nas.

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I presently run ROON on my late 2014 Mac Mini. I’m thinking of upgrading that to one of the new Minis with the M1 chip after it’s out for a few months. Then I could put the current Mini in the other house. Or something.

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It actually wasn’t that much of a PITA. It took me about an hour to remove the keycaps, remove the switches, put the new switches in and replace the keycaps. The Glorious Panda switches have a nice weight to them and I prefer them to the original browns.

I bought some lube for the switches, but decided to save that for another time, although that will mean going through the whole exercise again. The keys feel fine un-lubed, so I’m curious about how much better they would be.

It’s a little bit like replacing tubes - once you get the hang of it, you can speed up and get into a rhythm. Make sure you order a couple more switches than you need (I bent the pins on a couple, which I was able to straighten out). You’ll need a couple of specialized tools: a keycap puller (a plastic one comes with the GMMK keyboard, but I prefer the wire design in the picture below) and a switch puller (it looks like a pair of tweezers with the ends bent). Amazon has a ton of these at cheap prices.

Keycap Puller Switch Puller

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New keyboard peripheral showed up!

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That’s beautiful. Where did you get it?

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This person from Germany =)

Turtle Cases🐢 (@turtlecases.de) • Instagram photos and videos

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What’s it do? Is it one of those fancy Darko gravity enabled audiophile sound improvers?

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Nevermind. Hehehe. I see now.

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Well my old keyboard finally got bad enough that even Barbara said it was awful. Looking at the various price points, I went ahead and took your advice and got the GMMK full size. Now to wait…
Logitech also has a mechanical now, backlit, for $59 with “brown” switches. But if I don’t like the switches on the GMMK, it should be easy enough to change them.

How did your Flamboyant Panda switches work?

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The Panda switches were almost too flamboyant for me but after an adjustment period, they’re just right.

The brown switches were too light, but switching to the Pandas was a big swing in the other direction, and the keys felt too heavy at first. It took a couple of days, but eventually I stopped thinking about it, and the weight is now perfect.

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How much of a pain was it to pull the old switcharoo and switch switches?

It really wasn’t much of a pain, other than the time it took: a few minutes to find and watch a “How To” video on Youtube, and then an hour to replace all the keys. You just need the 2 tools I mentioned above.

And if you’re thinking of replacing the switches, you might want to get a switch tester too, which will give you an assortment of switches to try out. The tester I got didn’t have any Pandas, but I was able to tell straight away that I liked heavier switches, so it wasn’t too much of a leap of faith to get the Pandas.

This is currently what I’m rocking with.

Austin - E-White R2 with Novelkeys creams lubed with 205g0 and ePBT Kuro Shiro

Forever (65%) - Navy prototype with Stainless steel, FFF switches lubed with 205g0 and GMK WoB

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