Well, it’s certainly the best I’ve heard that can run 2A3, 300B and 45 series tubes without fuss.
If we’re talking pure 2A3 amplifiers, then the DNA Stellaris (silver or not) edges it out. Maybe the WA33 and EC Studio too, though the EC unit was a tad on the lean side for me, even for a 2A3 based unit.
I don’t know of a better 300B headphone amplifier, which isn’t to say there isn’t one … I just don’t know what it is/haven’t heard it. And I’ve heard quite a few.
We need a Woo owners thread. This is because there are people on here that have these uber amps. I feel this thread belongs to the above JPS EE WA33.
I didn’t find any info about 2A3 vs 300B. Is the 2A3 the weaker brother of 300B?
Okay the tube rollers like the 2A3 more because of detail better midrange and highs where the 300 is more bottom end so I’m hopping the 300B 2.5v I bought will have both attributes which would be nice.
The EML 300B 2.5 is actually a 2.5V heater version of a 300B. It is essentially their 300B mesh tube, but using the heater from a 2A3 (2.5V @ 2.5A).
Not really. They’re both single-ended power triodes, but they have different characteristics. In general the 2A3 is more linear but lower power (about 4W) than a 300B (about 8W). But since they have the same pin-out, and triodes work the same way, as long as you can give the 2A3 the necessary 2.5A of heater current, and drop the heater drive to 2.5V they’re pretty similar.
There are also transformer concerns due to differences in DC behavior/points for very low frequency output that make the 300B a bit more involved to fully leverage without losing some bottom end. Though a transformer that can properly handle the 300B in that regard should have no issues with a 2A3 (other than it being larger, heavier, and more expensive than it otherwise needs to be).
The 300B is most commonly praised/revered for its mid-range, which makes sense given what it was designed for, combined with a lush/euphonic character and some upper-register roll-off. The 2A3 is more linear, so tends to have a bit more top-end presence, slightly better clarity, and a less lush/euphonic presentation.
Getting more bass out of a low-voltage 300B running in a 2A3 amplifier seems unlikely, unless it has over-built transformers/power-supply (no idea if the WA33 does or not). But given that the WA33 is a balanced design, that may be a much less critical factor. And the balanced design means some aspects of distortion may get cancelled as well (somewhat dependent how closely the tubes are matched), which may result in a less euphonic result from the 300B vs. what you’d get in a single-ended implementation.
So the 1266 has a slight dip in mid range that I have read. Will the headphone benefit from the 300B characteristics?
There will be a benefit … though it won’t do much to change the level of the mids - as the 300B has rich, detailed, lush mids, rather than a particularly elevated mid-range level.
But 300Bs are still my favorite way to drive the AB-1266.
And for as long as I can remember JPS labs used a loaded WA5-LE (300B) to show-case them at meets and shows.
Now, what the actual sonic character of the EML 300B 2.5 is vs. a “true” 300B and/or what that EML tube sounds like in any given 2A3 amplifier is another matter entirely, and one I can’t really comment on beyond theory as I’ve never heard the tube.
And, again, it’s worth noting that balanced differential amplifiers will cancel/reduce some distortions (which is where the “euphony” tends to come from … 2nd order harmonics etc.) vs. a single-ended amplifier, so that may have an additional effect (reduction) on the audibility of the character of the tubes vs. a pure single-ended design (which is one reason why I go with single-ended amplifiers for tube amps).
They look good. How do they compare to their 2A3 mesh brothers when it comes to the overall resolution, bass, midrange, treble and soundstage? Please share your thoughts after some proper listening time and let me know which one would keep if you could only keep one of them between the EMLs 2A3 mesh and 300B 2.5.
You where right about solid plate being more enjoyable. The 300B 2.5 got rid of the boring sound that I had with the 2A3 m. For the 2A3 m was good with Tool and Beck. More listening will be done and I’ll see if I end up selling the mesh. I will be keeping the PSVANE ACME 2A3 it has it’s own magic I like.
I thought the 300B 2.5 were also mesh plates. According to EMLs page it’s a 300B Mesh with 2.5V heater and 2.5A filament current. I’m glad that you’re enjoying them better than the 2A3 mesh, the mesh variant of the 2A3 might sound thin (too refined or too Hifi for some) and I would not recommend them as an all rounder tube for all music genres, specially EDM, hip-hop and other bass heavy genres.
I examined the 300B 2.5v and can not see any mesh material. You can see the wires running down inside the plate.
Maybe it is a mesh. I read the website which states its a mesh I’ll ask George.
Yeah I looked at the pictures you posted in HF and couldn’t see any mesh either. It’s odd that EML website directs you to the 300B Mesh datasheet instead of the regular 300B solid. Will check with George.
Just got an answer from George that there are two types of 300B 2.5: solid and mesh. I’ll probably get the mesh to contrast the 2A3 solid that I have.
George just emailed me back there is two version I got the sold, so yes there’s a mesh.
If you look close to the pic on EML website you can see the mesh.
I was watching this review of the WA33 and they mention that the elite edition is very sensitive to the source - https://youtu.be/PA58JGnVthM?t=828 Can someone explain what do they mean by this? They ranked the standard edition with JPS wiring higher than the elite in their review. Does it mean that the bang for the buck for the Elite is when someone is using a super high end DAC like the Chord Dave or something?
Keep in mind Abyss and Woo have a business relationship and Abyss and JPS are run by the same folk. So there is an inherent bias possible with this review.
Wa33 Elite is not a bang for your buck piece of equipment. Never heard it but it’s considered high end and is expensive. It’s resolution is probably high enough that it can pick up “flaws” in the source gear or recordings. Flaws are relative to your preferences.
I’ve seen you asking a lot of basic questions, which is good, but you seem to be looking at high end gear, which is fine too, and I wonder if you know what you are really looking for and might be better served with less costly gear to help provide a frame of reference for you.
Having said that maybe you want to jump right in, just wanted to make sure you knew what you may be getting in to. In the end it’s your ears, your time, your happiness and your money.
Yeah I would imagine after a certain point things have diminishing return or works well only the previous step in the chain is efficient enough.
Yeah you are right! I am starting out and don’t have any frame of reference. I am looking at buying gear which would last me for some time. My impression so far with tube amps is that beyond the circuitry, it is possible to change the sound signature by changing tubes as long as the target tubes are supported by the circuitry, so trying to find something which which has a good foundation from where I can tweak things.
I am not great at selling stuff, so upgrading things after selling what I currently own might be a problem for me 
This is good advice. Absent demoing, one approach is to get a versatile solid state amp such as a Schiit Jotunheim 2 and use it as a tool to define your sonic preference in order to inform the type of amp to invest in for the long term.
