About the Do It Yourself (DIY & Mods) category


This is the place for those of you who love modding your gear, whether it to be to improve sound, change the tuning or for pure aesthetics.

Some quick guidelines:

  1. If you are posting a DIY/Mod, please specify what it is for and the degree of difficulty of the mod. Include the reasons for doing the mod and the expected outcome along with common errors that may happen along the way.
  2. If you are looking for DIY/Mod advice, please make it clear in your title so we can tag it as a question for quicker answers.
  3. For those of you who may be new to modding and are looking to give it a go just be forewarned, generally once you mod something you will void the manufacturer’s warranty in most cases. Most people know this but some do not so its always good to put out there.
  4. Have fun! DIY and modding can be a very fun and enjoyable hobby!
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How about DIY tutorial request, inquiries, or suggestions?

For example I’m interested in making a DAC with a raspberry pi


My first Grado vent mod. 4 holes really kicks up the bass. And it’s real bottom end bass. No eq boost can compare.
These are the SR225 (old ones not the “e”)
The added bass also smothes out any perceived brightness.
Also with Grados 10-20 hours of burn-in sweetens the sound soothing it.
But I still rarely recommend Grados Because so many people find them uncomfortable, or too forward.

Another thing about the comfort issue is, I luckily have “Grado ears” small and flat against my head.
Those with large ears that stick out perpendicular to the head will find Grados are absolutely unwearable.

This image is just before I added the Cardas headphone cable I had custom made.

I don’t think it’s very difficult, I can do this Arthroscopically so I don’t need to take them apart. (I use a paper clip and a small hex key And go through the back vent screen then through the felt and I can easily feel the front white mesh and that’s where I stop ) There’s no chance to puncture the driver because the driver does not cover the vent holes, the driver only covers in front of the small metal backing in the middle so unless you go through the two little holes in the metal part that’s where the diaphragm is. You can possibly puncture through the white mesh in the front of the housing. by going to far. But that’s never happened to me.

And I just can’t tell you enough about the boost. Big Bad Bass!!!

Absolutely appreciatable bass, no joke …mostly , <50hz with very little >70hz and no coloration in the upper bass/lower midrange.


Grado only factory vents the Reference and Professional series.
RS2’s 1 hole, RS1’s 2 holes, PS1000 and GS 1000 come vented 4 holes straight out of Brooklyn.
I’m not sure about PS 500’s. I would guess 1 or 2.


Oh, Grado uses heat set glue, so if you do what to open them for venting or cable upgrade just leave them in the car on a really hot day and they will come apart quite easily.
Or a hair dryer will do.


Many headphones can be bright and/or harsh right out of the box. Grados included. They tend to have a befuddled sound as though they are not quite sure how to sound. (yet) 10-20 hours+ will smooth them out substantially and open up the soundstage and deepen and tighten the bass. (usually, hopefully)
Always try to give every set of Canz a good run-in before making final judgement.

And very important, burn in “nice and slow”., See, “ nice and slow”. Don’t rip open the box plugin crank full blast.
You will traumatize the voice coil… seriously.
Low, low, low volume to start… Bring it up slow over several hours. They must be on your head, no proper run-in can be done on canz stands. Seriously…


I am also interested in building a hi-fi player built around a Raspberry Pi. Is this worth a separate thread?

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Honestly If you were to make one Id contribute, its a really solid Idea id love a little guidance on.