Caveat emptor Burson. Quality control and warranty support is not so good.
That sounds ominous. Did you have an issue that wasnāt resolved?
Yes. I had a volume control/select knob on my $2200 Conductor 3X Reference that actually became noticeably warped - less than a year old. Worked with customer service over the period of a few daysā¦furnished video, and a photo of the reverse side. I received this weasel word response:
"Our production and QC team have reviewed the video and your photo below and they have concluded that this movement is within the acceptable range.
Our volume switch is a 3 way axle while others are 2 way axles. Meaning, our volume knob can turn left/right and it can also be pressed to active mute and menu selection. As such, our volume switch is more wobbly when compared to the ones that can only turn left and right.
We hope for your understanding and support."
Iām happy with how the amp sounds, but it has some shortcomings with respect to rear panel labeling, and the volume control. Iāll find an aftermarket knob somewhere that should work. On a better front, I have a Sparkos Aries en route.
PS: I can also email you the video if you want to see itā¦
Sorry to hear, but good to know.
Thatās exactly the same type of control knob as on my $100 Loxjie P20. It wobbled from the start, and remains a solid value option. Hmm, should I get 22 of them for the Burson experience?
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Works for me. 
I emailed Burson customer service and let them know I thought their response was unacceptable nonsense, but frankly I donāt expect much at this point. Iām looking around on amazon for a replacement knob. The issue is the first detent on the back side of the knob. The Burson shaft doesnāt protrude far from the unit. Does your Loxie volume control have a press to select feature? thanks
Yes. The P20 uses push in for:
- On/Off
- Source select (RCA or XLR)
- Output select (SE or balanced)
With no push it is a digital stepped volume control.
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The problem Iām having is most of the rear knob detents are 4-5 mm deep. The first detent on the Burson volume / select knob is around 2mm (.9") depthā¦too deep of a detent makes the press to select functions unusable.
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20% off selected burson productsā¦
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Any clue as to Customs duties to the US? Iāve never bought something that expensive direct from overseasā¦ Some great deals though 
I am not sure, you could probably shoot burson an email and theyāll let you know. When I bought mine I just had to pay for shipping to the us.
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Same as @hifiDJ, I didnāt pay anything above and beyond the price on their website, to cover the amp plus shipping.
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I did not incur any extra charges over and above shipping.
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Burson Playmate 2
TLDR version on YouTube: TDLR - Burson Audio Playmate 2
The Playmate 2 has been sent to me directly by Burson for me to try it out and to share my opinions in this review. Burson have not made any requests or comments and, as always, I will do my very best to be as unbiased and sincere as humanly possible.
You can find the official page for the Playmate 2 here: https://www.bursonaudio.com/products/playmate-2/
As usual, this link is non-affiliate and I do not benefit from clicks or purchases in any way.
To avoid being repetetive in my reviews, you can find all the info about how I create the reviews, equipment used, how I receive the products and how to interpret my reviews by visiting: About my reviews
Introā¦
While Burson products have always drawn my attention, I have never had a chance to try any of them. Therefore, when Burson unexpectedly reached out and offered to send the Playmate 2 for review, I was obviously very happy to accept.
For those who havenāt come across Burson audio, or havenāt really paid any attention to them, they are an Australian company, based in Melbourne, who were established in 2001. This means that they are by no means a newcomer into the audio world and, while they do have quite a selection of DACs and Amplifiers, they are also very well known and respected for their OP Amps.
This is something that they are happy to use in their favour, as they build their products to make it easy to swap Op Amps, allowing users to tailor their products to their own tastes.
In the case of the Playmate 2 which I am reviewing today, it is again built to allow users to swap out OP Amps (with Burson offering different options) but I am focusing on this device in its stock form.
Presentationā¦
Burson are happy to let you know on their web that they do not advertise, buy reviews or attend trade-shows in order to not increase the price of their products. In the case of the packaging, it seems that a similar āno-frillsā approach is maintained.
A simple white box with basic information on the outside opens to reveal the device sitting in simple packing foam and a smaller white box containing the accessories.
Inside the accessories box we get the power supply, an adapter to split the mic input/headphone output (more on that in a second), a spare fuse, an allen key for disassembling the device (to swap OP amps), a fabric covered USB A to USB C cable and an RCA to RCA cable.
In general it is a very simple presentation but everything is well packed and protected and I applaud the saving on packaging where possible, especially if those savings go into the product itself.
Build and aestheticsā¦
The Playmate 2 is completely made of metal, aluminium to be more specific, which tends towards a slightly industrial look while still maintaining elegance. I had seen plenty of photos of the device and while I liked the look, I have to say that it looks much better in person than it does in photos.
With a brushed aluminium faceplate and back plate, the rest of the device is ridged, sort of like a heat sink, and while very simple, I must say I like the design. It has spent the past few weeks sitting on my desk at the side of a Mac Mini and while the Playmate 2 is of a darker finish, they look at home together.
Functionalityā¦
Starting off with the rear panel, there is not a huge amount of connectivity but enough from my personal use. From left to right we have the USB-C connection followed by a optical input, an RCA unbalanced output and finally the connection for the power supply (which is a 3A 24VDC).
Moving around to the front, again from left to right, we have the power button, a 6.35mm unbalanced headphone output, a 3.5mm TRRS output (for use with headsets that have microphones), a small screen with white digits, a large (and very nice) knurled digital potentiometer (which is also a push button) and finally the menu button.
On the screen we get the volume displayed in large digits to the left and just to the right we get smaller text that shows the selected input, the selected output and the current file rate. Turning the control obviously raises and decreases volume and pressing the same control mutes the device (with the volume display flashing to show it is muted).
When I first received the unit, I found that the volume wheel had a tendency to skip when turning it, it would do things like 20,21,22,23,19,20,21 etc. As I have used the device, this skipping became less frequent and is now something that only occurs very rarely. I think that maybe it is that the digital control needed some use to settle in (who says burn in doesnāt exist? 
).
By pressing the menu button we access the menu of the device, then we can use the wheel to scroll and press to access the parameter we want to change (with the device reverting back to the main screen after 30 seconds of no interaction or by pressing the menu button again).
The options in the menu are:
INPUT: USB/Toslink
OUTPUT: Headphone/Pre Out
PRE LV: Low/High
FIRFILTER: Brickwall/CMFR/Reserved/AP Fast/MP Slow/MP Fast/LP Slow/ LP Fast/
DPLL(DSD): DPLL Off/Low/Mid/High
DPLL(PCM): DPLL Off/Low/Mid/High
EMPHASIS: On/Off
RESET SET: No/Yes
AUTO OFF: No/Yes
The first two options are pretty straight forwards, the PRE LV is the gain and the FIRFILTER are the typical filter options you find on most DACs. The DPLL options are something that I havenāt come across before and searching the internet led me to discovering it stands for Digital Phase-Locked Loop filters but I didnāt investigate much further. You have the option to change them for DSD or for PCM independently but, in my subjective testing, I didnāt really notice a difference and opted for leaving them both on High (which is how they come out of the box).
EMPHASIS is a bit of a strange one as it basically reduces most of the high end of the sound. According to the manual, which actually lists it as āDE-EMPHASISā, you should only turn this on if your source is a cassette player, which makes sense for reducing the hiss of cassettes butā¦ the Playmate 2 only has digital inputs, so I canāt see how (or why) anyone would attempt to connect a cassette player to it.
The last two settings are RESET SET, which is to restore the factory defaults, and AUTO OFF which allows the unit to turn off automatically after not receiving a signal for a while.
Something that deserves mentioning again is the fact that the 3.5mm output is also an input for a microphone, allowing you to use either the typical 4 pole TRRS (such as those used on smartphones) or the included splitter and use a separate set of headphones/IEMs and microphone. This is something that is not found often on devices that focus on audio quality and should make it a very interesting unit for those who either game or do a lot of conference calls (like in my case) and donāt want to compromise on power or audio quality.
As far as power goes, the Playmate 2 is specified as having 3W per channel and I have to say that I had absolutely no issue with it powering anything that I plugged into it, be it high impedance DD or current hungry planars. IEMs are a bit more of a problem. The biggest issue with IEMs is that 1/100 on the dial is already at what I would consider an acceptable listening level for some, so there will be no really quiet listening sessions with IEMs on the Playmate 2. There is a hint of background noise with sensitive IEMs but at the same time it is less apparent than on some other devices that have been specifically designed with IEMs in mind.
Soundā¦
I donāt know why but I expected the Playmate 2 to be a bit of a harsh DAC/Amp. I guess that preconceived opinions were at play but I was surprised to find that it is actually quite a relaxed amplifier. It doesnāt portray the warmth of some other alternatives but it is certainly a long way from being harsh and analytical.
I have plugged in many sets of headphones and IEMs into the Playmate 2 over the weeks that I have been using it and I have to say, I found myself using it more and more, without swapping over to other options even when I found time to have a dedicated listening session.
As always, my subjective opinions of a DAC/Amp are a mixture of things that I really hear and things that my brain tells me I am hearing, but in the case of the Burson, I really enjoy the result.
For quite some time, my main set up was the SMSL SU-8 paired with the Schiit Asgard and the Playmate 2 is, to my ears, like a refined version of that set up. I tried going back and forth between the SU-8 and the Playmate 2 while feeding the Asgard 3 and I found that the outcome was very similar but, again, seeming just a little more refined on the Burson unit. Moving back to the Playmate 2, I have to say that I prefer the pairing with its own internal amp over feeding the Asgard.
With my planars, the result is very good, although I did find that on some occasions, the higher mids of the planar options could come across as slightly more harsh than usual, but that could also be due to the fact that I am used to the EF400 which is more of a warmer and smoother option.
With the HD6XX, the Playmate 2 does a very good job and I would be very happy to have it be my source for them if it wasnāt for having a tube amp on my desk. While talking about tubes, I also used the Burson to feed the Echo Mk2 and have absolutely no complaints there either. The result is slightly more focused than when fed by the EF400 which makes for a very enjoyable listen.
With IEMs I actually really like the presentation of the Playmate 2, the only issue being the fact that the amp is already loud enough at 1/100, so not really much room for adjustment. In fact, with some of the more sensitive options, they were already above my usual listening levels before I even got above 1.
Conclusionā¦
I feel that the Burson Playmate 2 is a very competent and well thought out device that is simple enough for those that just want plug and play but at the same time has enough options for those who want to tinker, both with the onboard filters and the option to swap out OP amps.
As far as performance, I have no complaints. I wouldnāt suggest that you pick this device up if you are mainly an IEM user, but for headphones it is a great option, no matter how much power they need. It is not an overly analytical amp and manages to have a slightly relaxed presentation but without getting to the warmer side like some other alternatives. I honestly do find it to be like having a more refined version of the SU-8 + Asgard 3.
Some people will complain about the lack of balanced connectivity on the Playmate 2 but that is not something I find an issue for me personally. I do opt for balanced connectivity over longer runs to my DSP and speakers etc. but my headphone set up is mostly unbalanced and it is something I have no complaints with.
However, there is one thing that sets this apart from almost all other options (at least from other brands) and that is the fact that it has a microphone input. Both for the gamers and for those who spend their days in an office with multiple calls, this is something that makes it stand out above the competition, allowing you to use headphones of your choice, with a mic of your choice, and not compromise on audio quality.
I guess the next step is to play around with some OP amp swaps and see what that brings to the table with this, very competent, DAC/Amp.
As always, this review is also available in Spanish both on my blog (www.achoreviews.com) and on YouTube (Acho Reviews - YouTube)
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Swapping OP Amps on the Burson Playmate 2 (& a nice remote)
As you can see in the previous post above, not long ago I reviewed the Burson Playmate 2, a very interesting all in one DAC/Amp by the Australian brand, Burson Audio, which is built to accept the swapping of OP Amps.
A couple of weeks ago I received a surprise package in the mail that contained a set of Burson Vivid Op Amps, along with a remote control for the unit.
I have spent some time testing these OP amps (and the remote), comparing them to the stock ones, and am going to share my opinions on whether or not it is a worthy upgrade to the unit.
There are 4 OP amps in the unit in total, in two different stages, and Burson offer two different models, the Classic and the Vivid. The ones I have received are the Vivid, as I just said, and these retail for $145 for the pair of duals plus $85 for the singles.
The official page can be found here: https://www.bursonaudio.com/products/supreme-sound-opamp-v6/
As always, the above link is non-affiliate.
Price & Remote Controlā¦
Before getting into the OP Amps, I just want to mention briefly the remote control. The basic option of the Burson Playmate 2 retails for $544 and doesnāt include the remote. If you opt for the V6 Vivid option, the remote is included, along with the OP Amps that I am testing today, and comes in at $744. I canāt find the remote control available separately on their site but if you do the math, you are paying $200 more for $230 in OP Amps plus a nice little remote.
And the remote is nice. Itās simple but it is elegant and compact.
Built completely from metal, including the buttons, the remote only offers vol+, vol-, mute and source select (cycling between Optical and USB inputs), but honestly, what more do you need? I tested it from one end of my living room to the other (about 6m) and it works fine, so it is plenty for you to kick back in your chair and not have to move to make changes.
So, in short, I like the remote, so letās get on to the OP Amps.
Changing the OP Ampsā¦
The procedure to swap out the OP Amps really couldnāt be any easier. You remove the top two screws of the face plate, the top two screws of the back plate, then the cover of the unit lifts of with ease. You obviously do this with the unit disconnected from the power supply, both for your own safety and the safety of the unit.
Inside you will find the 4 basic OP Amps which look like 4 little black squares with feet, all in a row. There are single channel OP Amps and Dual Channel OP Amps in the unit, it is important that you replace the singles with singles and duals with duals.
The basic OP Amps are identified by the number, with the 5534D being single and the 5532D being dual. You will also see that the ones on the right have the text legible from the front of the unit, while the ones on the left are legible from the back. The replacement OP Amps (in my case the Vivid V6, but the classic also) have text on one side of them, this text should face the same way as the orientation of the stock (basic) OP Amps.
To remove the OP Amps, just grip them (with an antistatic tool, like ESD long nose pliers or even plastic tweezers) and gently pull them up. Once removed, line up the feet of the replacement OP Amps (with the text facing the way mentioned above) and push them into the slots.
It really is that easy.
Sound changesā¦
I am not going to go through the sound of the stock unit, as I already did that in the full review (just read the post above), so I will just focus on the changes I noticed after the change. For this test I focused on keeping it simple, using the Hifiman Arya Stealth and the Sennheiser HD6XX, along with Foobar and music I have hear a million times (although not my usual test list, just a selection of music from one of my most listened to ārandomā playlists. The list contains everything from rap to rock, opera to EDM, pop to acoustic and just about everything in between.
The most noticeable difference straight off the bat was an improvement in the quality of bass. While there is no difference in quantity (which is a good thing), there does seem to be more clarity and definition in those lower ranges, with bass hits seeming to have more punch and authority.
While not night and day, there is also an improvement in detail. In its stock form, the Playmate 2 was already very good at presenting clear and coherent details, yet, swapping from one set of OP Amps to the other, there seems to be a little bit more focus on them. Itās not that there are more details, just that they seem to be presented with less effort.
With the stock OP Amps, I found that planars could sometimes come across slightly harsher in the upper mids than on other sources. This is something that is eliminated with the Vivid OP Amps. I no longer get that sensation of harshness on occasions (obviously depending on the music) and things are a little smoother in those upper mid ranges on the Arya Stealth.
Treble seems to be untouched, although my brain does tell me that there is a slight improvement in detail here also. While I am not sure that I would be able to tell the difference in treble without knowing which OP Amps were in place, overall the details seems to be improved, treble included.
Conclusionā¦
While it is always possible that my brain is the one telling me it is better and not really my ears, I come away with the sensation that the Vivid OP Amps really do offer an improvement over the stock ones.
We are talking about investing another $230 into a $544 DAC/Amp that already sounds pretty good in its stock form but, as with anything in this audiophile game, as we move up the ladder, smaller increments have the larger prices.
If you purchase the Playmate 2 with the OP Amps already installed (well, they are not actually installed, just shipped together), then you get to save $30 in comparison to purchasing them later, so that would probably be the best way to go. Letās be honest, when we are searching for that ultimate sound, if we know there is an upgrade available, we will, at some point or another, want to experience it. So as the saying goesā¦ ābuy once, cry onceā.
It will still arrive with the basic OP Amps installed and the Vivid OP Amps separate, so you get to experience the improvement with your own ears, which can be part of the fun!
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Burson Audio announced the Soloist Voyager, their new flagship headphone amp.
It appears to have the same design and specs as the Soloist 3X GT, in a new chassis and minus the fan.
It is now passively cooled, as it should have been all alongā¦
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@#PNOIFSP(E)(#@YHR)(PY#$@R(PNIUFPOINVDSP()HW#$@_)(PH@W#P$ORIUJN@#PR(HFP)(DH)P(WH$#P(R$#*HR#P$(*H)(PE$WH_P($VWHNP(@$W#*FH
REALLY, BURSON!? THE MINUTE I THOUGHT MY SOLID STATE AMP SITUATION IS SETTLED, YOU FINALLY FIX THE ONE DEAL BREAKER I HAD WITH THE AMP I OTHERWISE LIKE THE MOST!?
Sigh.
Thanks for the heads up, @robson ā¦ 
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I feel you with that one, itās aggravating to have laid out the cash for what should have been the design all along, with a price increase to boot!
Fair or not, as a buyer Iām kind of disenchanted with Burson right now, but Iād also like to hear the amp.
You should buy one @andris, and let me know what you think. That way, if you end up selling it later you can sell it to me!
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BTW, did you keep the Nitsch or sell it on?
I am probably pursuing the same strategy, unfortunately. Iām big on using the secondary market unless something doesnāt exist on it (e.g. limited editions, DNA, etc)
I still have it (actually, an audiophile buddy is borrowing it), but Iāll be selling it.
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Hey all, First time poster trying to fix an issue (2 really) with my Burson Playmates.
I was lucky enough that a friend outgrew his Playmate 1s that he owned and he gifted them to me. I ran the standard one for months but then it started giving fuzz in one earā¦ I changed out the OPAMPS but that didnāt fix the issue. I BELIEVE a capacitor may have an issue.
I then tried the Playmate Vividā¦ used it for 5 or 6 months, and then, one morning, I walked in to my office to the sound of my speakers continually popping. The power on the Playmate kept going in and out causing the pop sound on the speakers. donāt really know if it was the power adapter or the actual board in the Playmate.
Upon investigating the one with faulty power: there is a clicking noise near the front panel. When I take off the front panel and power the device, the clicking noise stops. No output on the screen. Also, a small blue diode flashes on the USB card.
Looking at the suspected capacitor issue, this one powers on and stays on. no clicking, no flashing light on the USB card. of the three larger, black, capacitors, the one nearer to the front has a noticeable wiggle to it. The other two, near the back power input, are solid to the board.
My thoughts are that the capacitor issue would be, more likely, the easier fix.
Has anyone else experienced any issues like these? Iām not good at soldering, so Iām afraid to really get in there with my soldering iron.