Elekit TU-8900 300B/2A3 Power Amp

Creating a new thread for this amp because I couldn’t find one here.

I just bought a kit, excited to build and experience a tube amplifier! I was eying the WA33 and Decware amps for a long time but the Bakoon x Susvara amp was good enough, but I always wanted to build an amp so when this new model came out couldn’t resist.

Opted for the Lundahl transformer upgrade(non amorphous core, since it’s not available yet), and the caps upgrade.
Would love to hear experiences from others who have built an Elekit amp or have listened to one.


What speakers are you planning on using with the elekit?

I don’t have any speakers yet, but may get one of those Fritz speakers in the future! I will use this amp with a Susvara headphone and the DCS Bartok DAC for now. And getting the 2A3 tubes.

I think we would all enjoy it if you snapped a few pictures as you built the amplifier! Not asking for a full build log, but it would be fun to see progress as you go.

Good luck with the build! Let us know how it goes


Yeah absolutely! I will try to keep a build log as well :slight_smile: I have soldered diodes and resistors on keyboard pcbs in the past so hoping I am good to go on that front ha ha.


Congrats. I’m interested. I stumbled across the Bottlehead Stereomour II as I was building a Crack. However, I don’t know much about 2A3 amps.

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The folks I have known who have done the Elekits in the past have been reallly happy they got the upgrades. They can be quite remarkable amps by all accounts. I think you’ll be happy with the performance. This is of course referencing previous models but I imagine the performance will stand up.

The amp is here, going through about 30 pages of instruction manual before starting to build.


I messed up soldering in one spot :frowning: I was using a silver solder with no flux and it’s been really difficult to work with it because it doesn’t flow nicely. Waiting for the Cardas solder to come tomorrow and then going to resume working on the pcb again.


The Bottlehead Crack manual has sharp warnings about solder types. They recommend simple 60/40 or 63/37 tin and lead, so that’s what I got (0.8mm diameter). It was very easy to use.

I’m not sure if one could heat non-60/40 solders to the proper temperature without damaging parts/boards with some builds. The factories use assembly line hardware with dunk-tanks and other stuff we don’t have.

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