Give a try to planar magnetic headphones. The added separation of instruments and voices can help you to better perceive the passages that you indicated. Nothing to spend a fortune for. A pair of Sundara can suit you well IMO.
This is a good point. Sadly many recordings of technically important operas are old and lack of proper basic quality.
If I could like this post more than once I would. I’m in a similar situation. Same DAC/AMP but currently with the monolith m1060c’s. I know…but hear me out. I’m only using the 1060’s because I have no idea which headphones I really want. I’m in Utah and we have no shops to demo headphones.
Good luck to you! As soon as I find a way to determine which ones I prefer I’ll jump in. Please update when you find your solutions
I have a ZMF Aeolus on order and already have Focal Clear MGs. I currently have a Topping D90/A90 DAC/Amp.
I want to explore what a tube amp can do, particularly for the Aeolus. I’m prepared to spend at or even a little above $1000, with the exception being that I would consider the ZMF Pendent if the sense was that I’ll really get the biggest bang with the Aeolus, or that the Low/High Impedance options on the Pendent work best for my collection of headphones.
I would like to think that I’ll go with one amp, so I’m not looking to spend my way up the ladder. I’ll buy one really great amp and hopefully stick with it.
The Feliks Echo looks particularly interesting, but if you could give me a recommendation not only on a specific amp but also perhaps a philosophy as to what I should be looking for, I’m all ears.
Thanks in advance for your advice.
Two of our very respected members and @ProfFalkin did a great live stream on this topic:
I’ve spent a ton of time with the livestream today - thanks for the link - but have come out more confused than when I started it. Great commentary but not a clear winner. Seems like the Feliks Echo MK 2 would be fine (they liked the spec but hadn’t heard it); seems like the Mjolnir 2 could work fine, seems like they were bullish on the Hagerman Tuba, but I’m starting to wonder if the Pendant might be my best, or at least safest, bet.
That’s the thing, there often aren’t clear winners, but rather contenders depending on your needs and wants.
This is also the problem with not spending up the ladder, you aren’t really sure what pros and cons are important to you.
The Mjolnir and the Pendant are both reputed to be very close to solid state, as in not a lot of the toob flavor that some people love. This will be tricky, since you aren’t sure if you love it or not.
We all know this advice stinks as it is hard to listen to anything for anyone right now without hemorrhaging cash.
When I was in your shoes I put together a bottle head crack kit to see what I thought about tubes before I sent big bucks. I’m not sold that glowing filaments are necessary for my life. Another way you could fund some exploration is to find a used Mjolnir, as they seem to hold their value quite well. You could buy, try, and sell, hopefully only losing some shipping costs, which is a bargain to learn more about what you want from an amp.
As to the philosophy, I’ve been hinting at it, but I guess I’ll state it forthrightly…
Neither experience, nor anyones measurements are more valuable, or a substitute for, your experience. The only way to get what you want is to put in the work learning about what you want.
(yes, I realize how unsatisfactory this is)
This is extremely helpful, and recognizes that I don’t yet know what I want, so a purchase of a Pendant, for example, may be making a bet that I don’t know enough about yet to place.
I have a Topping A90 SS amp, which is really great, so I’m looking for something “tubey” (or tooby) as a point of contrast. The folks on the livestream seem to be really upbeat about the Tuba - particularly as it pair with my headphones - so that may be a better place to start.
I love the look and the reviews of the Bottlehead Crack, but knowing myself, I have no faith at all that I’d do a good job assembling, and once I pay someone else to do it, we’re in a higher price territory going against other really good choices.
I think I’m battling between Mjolinir 2 and the Tuba (and leaning towards the Tuba), and will probably just pull the trigger on one of them and know I can resell.
Thanks so much for your response.
None of us know what we want before we try stuff. That’s what gear tours, audio shows, and in-store demos can provide. Many people buy-it-to-try-it, and often sell for a minimal loss (or lose a lot, or don’t sell).
In adding to the input above, there are multiple moving parts. With headphones and DAC fixed/selected, one would then need to consider how colored or uncolored of an influence for the amp to have on the total sound, as well as the intended music genre(s), among other things. And does one favor an all around performer vs a specialist (both with respect to music, and also to gear). You mentioned tubey (which I put under the rubric of colored), but how tubey, as there are different degrees. I’m afraid there isn’t a one-size-fits all answer, and few bright line rules in audio.
Thanks. I’m coming to realize that the possibility that I’ll pick the wrong amp and may have to try another is a feature of this hobby, not a bug. And possibly where the fun of it all resides.
I just pulled the trigger on the Hagerman Tuba. Let the fun begin!
It won’t probably be “wrong”. All the stuff we recommend is pretty beloved by lots of people.
It might not be “optimal”, or “perfect”. But it won’t sound straight bad, or broken.
In reality, we tend overstate the differences between equipment. It can take real effort to find the differences past a certain level, almost all of its pretty darn good. But in order to explain the differences, we sometimes make it sound like the changes are enormous, and they usually aren’t.
(Unless you’re talking about the gear I am currently trying to sell, in which case, that stuff will change your life, make you taller, and guarantee better returns on the stock market, as well as sound better)
My thought exactly. I own the hybrid Schiit Lyr 3 precisely because I was looking for a safe all around amp with some tube aspect. If I had the time I would have built a bottlehead crack with speedball because kits are fun and it’s a killer value. Almost bought an assembled version.
When I eventually retire, assuming I can still hear, I may build one anyway.
It was helpful to read through the discussions msyelf, as I’m also looking to upgrade my amplifier to spoil my Aeolus. I too am eyeing the Hagerman Tuba.
I’m in New Zealand, so Bottlehead Crack plus shipping puts it at about $600. Then I add the volume pot upgrade that I want and shipping that gets a bit more expensive.
Hagerman Tuba does free shipping, so that’s $700 said and done.
Granted, I’ve got a friend who will help me build a crack. He’s build a bunch of amps. He knows both Bottlehead and Hagerman from his interests in 2 channel speakers and has reccomended both. So would be some good quality time. One of the main resons I want to get a Bottlehead.
I’m also trying things out as I’ve never heard a tube amp. Being where I am, you usually lose out on shipping when you go and flip something. Reason why Tuba is looking good to me.
But my personal asthetics, I prefer the Schiit / Hagerman Tuba look. From my desk I woodworked myself, to the Aeolus, my setup sorta has a heavy wood / diy vibe. Personally, I like the mix of artisinal with sleek metal designs. I think the Bottlehead on my desk with exposed wires will tip the scales a bit too artisinal / DIY. Think you can tell, that I’m the type of person where looks plays a large factor.
Just jumping in on this “tubes under $1000” discussion - I wish there was more info out there on the La Figaro 339i. It seems like a fun/tempting thing to try in that budget, but really hard to find comparisons to gear I know (Mjolnir 2, Pendant), which both are closer to SS than the stereotypical tube sound.
@Bob honestly the Tuba seems to be highly regarded, it was brought up a lot when I was mulling getting my Pendant.
I am looking for: In-Ear Monitors
My price range is: up to $200
I am a professional drummer, and this would be used exclusively for live music performance monitoring as a replacement for a stage wedge monitor. As such, it’s vitally important that the IEMs have a really good seal and stays put even with a lot of movement (cord over ear). I need good sound isolation, and a clear balanced sound. Finally, durable and comfortable for hours on stage. I know the Shure SE215s are the default “budget IEM,” but it’s only one driver, and I’ve been drawing heavily from the Crinacle ranking list and the Antdroid ranking list as I do my research, and they both sites rank the SE215 quite low.
Here are the three models I’m considering:
THEIAUDIO Legacy 3
Shozy Form 1.1
Tin HiFi T3
The Legacy 3 looks like it might have the best isolation, but it’s disappointing that it only comes with one type of tip and I worry about getting a good fit. The Form 1.1 is a similar build and had a whole slew of tip options. At first glance, I wouldn’t expect the T3 to isolate very well, but rtings.com says it does, though I’ve also found some reviews saying it doesn’t. (unfortunately rtings doesn’t have a review of the Legacy 3 or Form 1.1). I also have concerns with the T3 staying in place.
I have been trying to research but it’s very hard to tell which are “In-Ear Monitors” just for personal listening, and which work for musicians to use on stage. (I feel like we really need separate names for the two categories).
Can anyone help guide me here? Of those three, which would you recommend and why? Or what other models might you recommend?
Thank you!
Steve
You might also look at the Sennheiser IE 40 Pro and/or other IEMs in that series. They are specifically designed for stage use, although several of us find they are a good all-around IEM in their reasonable $99 price range.
Hello! Hopefully this is the correct forum to post this question.
For the Khadas Tone 2 Pro acting as a DAC, if I were to use the Balanced RCA cables into the Tone2 Pro which go to an XLR male out, then attach a female XLR-to-RCA male adapter, then connect that male RCA to a single-ended amp through its RCA port, would that eliminate ground loops or could ground loops still pass through?
Tone2 Pro → Balanced RCA cable into Tone2 Pro, male XLR out → female XLR to male RCA adapter → RCA single-ended amplifier (still ground loops???)
Thanks!
Since there is nothing in that chain that will take advantage of the differential signaling, you get no common mode rejection and thus no cancellation of hum or noise.
Gotcha–I figured as much but thought I’d check. Thank you for the speedy reply!