One.
It’s for a Schiit Lyr 3.
I was thinking of mapping the correct pins and taping the tube as is to a socket saver. The socket saver would then serve as the key. But, it’s just a cheap tube and doesn’t matter either way…it’s more about the challenge than a need.
Do you want this tube? It’s yours for $10 (basically, covers shipping). There is nothing wrong with it, as far as I know. It’s a very lightly used Sylvania 6SN7WGT that I basically got by accident. My amp needs a matched pair, so a single tube is useless to me. The prior owner tested it, and says it tested at 75% of NOS. For context, tubes often test near NOS for the bulk of their useful life, so this is probably not going to last you nearly as long as a strong-testing true NOS tube, but probably good for a while nonetheless. A strong-testing NOS version of this is probably in the $50-65 range. No pressure, of course.
Props. Your proposed solution sounds viable.
I’d suggest getting a socket saver, determining the proper seating carefully, and just inserting it. You could build a little guide out of plastic light setting resin, or use that to fab with what you have.
Or you could send me your address and I’ll send you mine. It’s only used about a month.
I also think I recall another user who has two TungSol 6SN7GTBs and was comparing them to each other . . .
Thanks. I’m not expecting much from the tube, honestly. It’s more about the challenge and ‘bringing it back from the dead’ (see old thread). I’m in a DIY mood these days and found it in a box. I do have a socket saver.
To fix it “right” one could get molding gel (alginate a la dentists, artists, and jewelers), insert a good tube for the right shape, pour in fresh resin, seat the bad tube, let the plastic bond and harden, then grind to shape.
PSA for 300B tube folks. The new production Western Electric tubes have been “coming soon” forever since their super early production runs, but I checked today, and it looks like they can be purchased!!! Ugh. Now to decide if I should take the plunge on Western Electric, or trust the (probably more reliable?) Japanese Takatsuki tubes. Feedback from anyone with experience is appreciated 
I think @torq may have both, I believe he got a set of the WE and even ordered a second (I think, apologies if incorrect). Maybe he’ll chime in if he’s around.
Torq replied in that 6SN7 thread with his thoughts. He seems to prefer the new production WE300B to the Takatsuki slightly, but from his description of the sonics, I think I’d actually prefer the Takatsuki.
Crap. I did read that but forgot about the comparison he made.
Final tube-rolling results depend so heavily on circuit used, other input/driver tubes, overall system setup, and most of all, personal preference, so one often just has to try them all.
For example, I have Takatsuki 300B’s and appreciate their virtues, but I currently run the lowly Gold Lion 300B’s. Yes, I like my sound vivid and bold.
Hey fellow tube rollers! It’s been awhile since my last post, so I figured I would share some tube pics of my collection for the ZMF Pendant SE I have on the way. I am quite proud of this collection, and I am sure some of you tube gurus will realize how amazing this collection is. Most of these tubes are super rare and very hard to find for a reason. 
Driver tubes
12AT7/ECC81
Left to Right - Brimar CV4033 Triple Mica, Brimar CV4033 Double Mica, Sylvania 6201 Gold Brand Black Plate, CBS 7728, Raytheon 7728 (1 Hole in Plate), Raytheon 7728 (2 Holes in Plate), Valvo ECC81 Square Getter (Bottom Code), Valvo ECC81 Coin Base (Very first version), Philips Hamburg 6201 Pinched Glass Triple Mica D Getter (As rare as they come, and considered the “Holy Grail” of 12AT7 variants), Lorenz ECC81 Foil D Getter (Stuggart, and another super rare “Holy Grail” level tube), and Amperex Holland ECC81 Foil D Getter
12AU7/ECC82
Left to Right - Amperex 7316 Long Plate Foil D Getter, Amperex Holland ECC82 Long Plate Foil D Getter, Brimar CV4034, Valvo Hamburg Long Plate Foil D Getter 55’ (super rare), Raytheon 7730 Long Plate Angled Square Getter (ultra rare), Mullard Blackburn ECC82 Long Plate Square Getter 57’, Lorenz ECC82 Long Plate Square Getter (ultra rare), Valvo ECC82 Long Plate Square Getter 56’ (ultra rare), CBS/Hytron 5814a Black Plate Square Getter, Sylvania 5814a Triple Mica Grey Plate Square Getter, and Siemens ECC82 Chrome Plate
12AX7/ECC83
Left to Right - CBS 7729 Long Plate, and Brimar CV4035
Rectifiers
EZ81/6CA4
Left to Right - Mullard EZ81 Blackburn Square Getter (Wrinkle Glass Earliest Version), Valvo labled Mullard EZ81 Blackburn Square Getter, Raytheon Japan EZ81 Triple Mica Square Getter (so rare I have never seen another one!), Telefunken EZ81 O Getter, and G.E.C. U709 (This is ultra rare and expensive and supposed to be the “one”)
Power Tubes
EL84/6BQ5/7189
Left to Right - Mullard EL84 Blackburn RX1 Square Getter (early version), Valvo Hamburg EL84 Dish Getter (first version with 1 hole plate), Valvo Hamburg EL84 Dish Getter (second version with 3 holes in plate), Amperex 7189 Holland D Getter (super rare), and Philips Holland EL84 D Getter
EL84 cont. -
Tungsram EL84 with Foil Dish Getters (early version and rare)
Another pic of the famous rectifier the G.E.C. U709, which again is supposed to be on another level compared to all other EZ81 rectifiers, and I can’t wait to hear what it can do when I get my Pendant SE.
I plan to report back in the Pendant thread, once I get mine and have had some time rolling and listening. Also, I have more rare and amazing NOS tubes on the way, so the collection is still growing.
Happy Rolling and Collecting,
Wes
Good day everyone, I just got a ta-10r and it comes with a 12au7 I believe. I am not sure what options I have for tubes. I was reading through the first 100 posts and honestly this is harder than picking a dac or amp
I just want something under a 100 if possible, and compatible with my unit. Not sure if I can use 12ax7 or not
Or as this being my first tube amp/hybrid any suggestions on some good budget tubes, maybe buy two or 3 under 40 to try.
Overall though, anyone’s top 3 tubes under a 100 would be greatly appreciated.
In addition, if you can teach me in a simple way what the idea is behind I guess a balanced tube or I believe on a webpage review I was reading it suggested to get something along those lines for this amp. Maybe? Balanced triode I guess
Or you can just link a source where I can read this all to better understand which 12au7 tube I should select.
audiotubes.com > 12AU7. Read page. Email Brent your budget per tube and number of tubes desired, ask for recommendation. Order internally balanced. Stick with 12AU7 and its variants with the same gain.
You can try to tell him your desired sonics and anything gleaned from reading the page above. Enjoy.
Yea I went to that website already, you posted that a while ago. That website seems to be for more avid users. Does it provide sonic descriptions? I didn’t see it
Me telling him sonic characteristics I enjoy basically amounts to purchasing every tube they got😂
I will reach out to him, but it’s still going to be tough. Appreciate it
Yes, it does.
That’s why you tell him number of tubes desired.
If you execute as suggested, you’re more likely to advance progress.
If overwhelming, you can avoid reading and simply email. This assumes your goal is listening and enjoying, not researching.
@HeadphoneNoob , welcome to the mysterious and very confusing world of tube rolling. I just started down this path myself, and the 12au7 happens to be one of the tubes I’m rolling.
Here are some things that I’ve learned over the last few weeks:
The biggest problem I’ve found researching tubes is that you’ll find a lot of people saying “this is great” or “I hated this” but they never give you the context:
For instance, I was just trying out a Mullard 12au7 a couple of days ago, and it really emphasized the bass and mids but the highs seemed a little rolled off. Vocals and reggae sounded awesome, but indie rock sounded a little too smooth, and didn’t have the bite I was looking for. Now I had done enough research that I was expecting something like this, and I wanted to hear it for myself, but I’ve read too many posts on various forums that just state something like “Mullard is the best”, which is misleading.
I’ve had a lot of help from 2 vendors:
Brent Jessee, which @bpcarb already pointed you to. His website can be very overwhelming to a newbie tube roller, but the site is very good at pointing out bargains, especially where a particular manufacturer made tubes for someone else. Brent is also very good at getting back to you, and he told me he prefers email.
Vintage Tube Services. The owner, Andy, is the opposite of Brent. He doesn’t like email, so call him if you want his advice. @bpcarb and others have had issues trying to get through to him, so apparently I’ve been very lucky that I’ve been able to connect, and in fact he even called me a couple of days ago. If you get a busy signal, just keep dialing until you get through, don’t leave a message. Once you talk to him, he’ll spend as much time as you want, answering your questions. I found him down to earth, and he talked me out of expensive tubes and steered me to some cheaper ones, which he thought were just as good.
And finally, I can’t vouch for this, but I found this matrix on the Steve Hoffman forum.
Just dropped on DROP. You Tube review below.
Hmmmm I see what you are talking about. That is strange though, earlier when I read your first comment I went in and clicked that same link and it only showed tube name a price. Probably was an html error.
This time I see it describes the brand and the page has white background, but each tube of that brand has similar characteristics?
What’s a mica?
And what is getter design? Does that play a role in sound quality too?
Only thing that’s nice about that website is it seems I have about 5 6 options which fit my budget or I shouldn’t say budget rather not trying to spend half the price of this unit on a tube even though a 100 doesn’t fall short of half
