I’m guessing that’s the case, similar to @rustyrat’s DIY solution to the RAD-0 pad-related pain.
ZMF November begins this year on 11/12 fyi.
What kind of sales has Zach done in previous years?
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Best deals are usually the B-stock and used headphones. Though I usually look for the “rarities” that might have been prototypes or one-offs in a wood available in any normal or LTD release.
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For the VC, what’s the difference in sound between a hardwood (e.g., African Blackwood) and stabilized wood?
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I’d say they’ll be very close. African blackwood is a harder wood. The stabilized sets are very hard as well. Softer woods would have a slight difference, but nothing night and day.
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Theres a slight difference in the perception of decay, but the fr is geberally the same between them all.
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I didn’t hear 2 wood/versions of the VC, just the then-stock monkeypod wood (this was a loaner VC + silkwood VO that I had here for a couple weeks in late 2019). IMO the VC was the best closed back headphone I’d ever heard–bass that hit harder than the VO, sensational soundstaging for a closed design, and along w/the great speed & resolution, a bit of “zing” in the upper mids (VC wasn’t bright, just more emphatic in the upper mids than the VO).
I did do extended listening to my padauk (hardwood) Eikon and my friend’s cherry wood Eikon over a period of 2 years. Note that Zach said the choice of wood with these high impedance dynamics should have less effect than it had with the Ori.
He was sorta/kinda right, in the sense that differences were pretty subtle–you had to listen for them. What I heard in the cherry Ike was a more resonant, “romantic” sound; soundstaging that seems just a bit bigger; and bass that didn’t hit quite as hard (though IMO all Eikons have bass impact to spare). My padauk Eikon traded those qualities for more impact in the bass (perceptible), a slight increase in “speed,” and subjectively more “zing” in notes in bass & mids, especially (less resonant/more impactful). Note that both Eikons shared the positive traits of the design–great dynamics, excellent bass, including sub-bass that’s among the best; slight warmth; and an rousing sound.
So when I got to the open-back dynamics, I decided to select wood to my push the sound toward my sonic tastes:
Verite Open: This being a high resolution headphone with great speed, excellent bass and big, expressive mids: I went with the stock silkwood because I guessed that it wouldn’t benefit from greater zing/more speed. Hard to know if my guess paid off. All I can say is the sound of this VO is lovely, refined and detailed–high resolution expressed with great musicality.
Blackwood Aeolus: I was very familiar with this headphone after repeated longterm loans of my friend’s sapele Aeolus. In selecting wood for mine, I guessed this warm, mid-bassy, resonant headphone would benefit from more speed, “zing”/note impact, and slightly deeper sub-bass, all of which I think I have in this headphone, the sound of which impresses me to no end.
If I were getting a VC, I’d do the same as I did with the VO and get the stock wood, currently (I believe) sapele, on the assumption that this headphone needs no further “zing” and emphasis.
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Here is some good reading material from @ZMFheadphones
Cheers bud!
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Am I the only person who really dislikes the setscrew system for adjusting the cups?
I know they should be a “set it and forget it” kinda thing, but the reality is that these very expensive cans get cycled through multiple owners and the screws get to be troublesome.
That’s my one real complaint with them, was just wondering if anyone else felt the same way.
I’ve never adjusted the screw once on any of the 3 ZMF’s I’ve had. I think Zach uses locktite to make sure it doesn’t come unscrewed by accident. Why would you have to fiddle with the set screw to adjust the cups?
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So I’ve had 5 different sets (all the current offerings except the Auteur) and on a couple of them, they’ve been loose, probably because I was the second or third (maybe fourth) owner and they became a bit worn.
That’s why I asked if I’m the only one whose run into this.
I guess I should quit complaining and buy a new pair next time! 
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I remember reading that Zach has only recently started putting thread locker on the set screw to prevent the cup from unscrewing and falling off. If this worries you, you could always add a dab of locktite on the set screw. Then you won’t have to worry! That’s much cheaper than buying another ZMF!
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I just received a brand new pair of Vérité and had to tighten the screw on one side as the slider slipped down too easily. It was simple enough to do and it’s held up well so far (but it’s only been a few days). Be careful, of course, not to chip or scratch the paint around the screw.
I think I may have the wrong idea about the term “set screw”. Is this the threaded piece in the side of the cups that goes through the little rubber o-ring/spacer? Or is it the threaded bottom part of the rod? Or is it something else?! I’m confused now.
The thread locker I mentioned was for the threaded end of the adjustment rod. I know people have had the cups fall off if the rod unscrews from the gimbal. The thread locker was meant to make this far less likely.
I had the same problen with them coming loose (and sometimes falling into the cups… trying to fish one out thru that little hole is a good way to spend a day or two, 
).
But Zach now secures them with loctite and recommends the user not adjust them at all. That’s why he no longer includes the adjustment wrench.
This is from the FAQ on the ZMF site:
If they appear to move in or out of place on the gimbals they should be re-threadlocked.
Our choice in the shop, standard on all models is Vibra-tite VC-3 threadmate. When thread locking with Vibra-tite, use a small amount in the top three threads, allow ~10min to dry and then work the bolt in past flush, then loosening a quarter turn and brushing away excess. Avoid putting metal or sharp tools in contact with metal finish.
Contact us at contact@zmfheadphones.com and we may be able to supply a consumer portion of Vibra-tite
All of the above,
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I have read that and basically Zack says pick the one that you think looks good. But I had hear people mentioning that harder woods had different sound than lighter. I just didn’t remember what. But I guess in the end I should just pick one that I like the looks of since the differences are minor.
Perhaps the weight is more important, then.
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Even if we assume for a second that what people say is accurate (*it rarely is), you would have to have 2 of the same model made out of 2 different woods next to each other to actually discern any difference. I think that’s what Zach means when he recommends you choose based on looks - any sonic difference will be so minor as to be virtually immaterial, but you will see the wood you chose every time you go near the headphone. So pick a wood that you think is beautiful - they all sound more or less the same.
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I’m sorry, it’s almost certainly me who’s getting it wrong and causing the confusion. I thought you meant this screw here (the one the arrow’s pointing to):
My apologies.
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