ZMF Headphones - Official Thread

Those headphones are a work of art @TylersEclectic. Simply stunning.

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That’s the one I was referring to.
I’ve also experienced the screw that attaches the yoke to the cup falling into the cup, and the yokes coming off the bars. Those aren’t as big a deal to me, because they go back together relatively easily.
That one is a bear to manipulate without damaging it

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I’ve had some that are super stiff to move, almost like they’re locked up or over tightened. And then some that move very smooth. My VO’s are very stiff and a struggle to move but I set them to my size and leave them alone. I’m with the lock tight as I’ve used it for cycling for computer mounts, etc, blue loctite works great but can break free pretty easy. For me, if it’s tight, I’ve left them just because I really hate the idea of messing with the way they were delivered, 2nd, 3rd hand or more. I’ve been luck to never have a screw drop or fall out.

@zach915m I think they come from ZMF already locked with loctite?

That would be my guess and why I don’t mess with it unless absolutely necessary.

I can’t remember, does Zach post pictures of the stuff that’s going to be available during ZMF November before the sale goes live? I seem to recall having no idea what I was going to find last year.

They do for the stabilized sets but from what I recall from last year, they don’t on the rarity/over-run and b-stock sets. I think you find out what’s available in those categories when it goes live.

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On HF Zach said there will be an email showing the rarities that will be available, but he didn’t mention B-Stock.

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We use ball end plungers in the uprights to keep the tension of the rod adjustment. We used to thread lock them very firmly in place, but a lot of owners tried to adjust the tension and with such a small screw thread locked solidly the screw head would get warped and damaged, and then they’d have to be sent back for an expensive repair. So to prevent this we’ve started thread locking then less (they are still thread locked) , and while they may get loose after extended use, it’s better than having to replace an expensive part.

If you’re upright ball end plunger does get loose, just use a tiny flat head to tighten it to your delight.

I really take pride in knowing that our headphones are very modular and somewhat easily repairable, but we have stopped sending adjustment pieces because many times owners want to adjust things and bad things can happen without proper instruction.

Coming up I am going to be publishing a lot more YouTube videos on this kind of stuff, so it should be helpful.

As a reminder, loctite can be used on aluminum, and always use vibra-tite VC3 on magnesium or you will strip the finish.

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Many times when new owners have trouble making adjustments to the uprights its because the headband might be held when trying to make the adjustment. The upright needs to be pinched near the rod to make an easy adjustment to the rod height. This can be shown in our ā€œadjusting the Rodsā€ video on YouTube.

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@ZMFheadphones What is the charge to re-terminate a 2K Copper cable? I might soon have a 2K cable with a 4-pin XLR that I’d like to have a normal 1/4ā€ connector. I’d prefer to not go the adapter route, so what does this normally run if I send the cable back to you for the service? Thanks!

Being that this is November, and Zach is probably incredibly busy, you would be best served to send him an email asking that question. I sincerely doubt he monitors this forum as closely as he does his business email.

As a curiosity, why no adapter? I use one and it’s great.

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Yeah, I might end up going with an adapter but my OCD would prefer a cleaner look. It really depends on how much it cost to reterminate. It would be $150 for the 2K Copper adapter.

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You might receive a quicker response by submitting a repair form through their website: Repair Form — ZMF Headphones

If you want a cleaner look I’d recommend an adapter from DHC. They’re on the pricier side but quality is top-notch and you get no degradation in sound quality. I hear they hold black friday sales so this might interest you more.

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Just got the info from someone that did the same thing to their 2K cable that it should be under $50 to have it re-terminated. Sounds like the best option. I’ve emailed Bevin to verify the pricing. Thanks for all the input.

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My situation may be different from yours. What I face is several treasured amps that are single-ended only; plus several others that are balanced designs.

I prefer listening to balanced amps using balanced cables, so I now have 3 aftermarket cables + 1 ZMF cable, all 4-pin XLR on the amp side and 3-pin mini-XLR on the headphone ends.

So what to do when using one of my single-ended amps? That’s where the adapter comes in. It’s ~8" long, female 4-pin XLR on one end and 1/4" jack on the other. It’s made of the same TOTL ForzaAudioWorks cable (HPC Noir MK2) as my 2 Forza balanced cables.

Without that adapter, I’d have to reterminate at least one of these cables (which I don’t want to do). And then I would be unplugging cables from headphones, then plugging in new cables more often (also something I don’t want to do).

The male mini-XLR jacks in the earcups of my headphones are solidly built–but the fewer times I plug/replug cables into those jacks, the better I feel.

I only have single-ended amps and don’t plan to get any balanced amps in the foreseeable future. The VC I’m hoping to buy comes with a 10ft balanced 2K Copper cable, longer than the 6ft 2K cable I currently have. My plan is to re-terminate the 10ft cable and sell my 6ft one. If I had any plan whatsoever to get a balanced amp, I would definitely go the adapter route. As you know, I’m quite content with my Quicksilver and SW51+!

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Give it time…

(sound of demonic laughter)

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Ok, need some opinions. I’m getting a 10ft 2K Copper cable with my VC, and it comes sleeved from the splitter down. I’m mailing the cable to ZMF to have it re-terminated and am considering having them remove the sleeving while they have it there. My head says, ā€œLeave the sleeving. This cable is expensive and needs to be protected!ā€ All the while, my heart says, ā€œDon’t cover up all that beautiful braided copper! If you can’t see it, you can’t convince yourself it sounds better.ā€

Time for a poll. Please let me know what you think is the better option on my 2K Copper cable.

  • Sleeved and safe
  • Unsleeved and beautiful

0 voters

You might defeat the OCD by vinyl wrapping the adapter so it glories in its adapter-ness and doesn’t try to blend in. I’d suggest a murder hornet graphic theme.

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