And I knew 4 days before he did! And still didn’t buy them 
Hi My budget is 200 I will use it for gaming + music
I recently have bought koss ksc75 as my first good headphone and I'm enjoying it .then I want to get a decent headphone and keep ksc75 for portal use. I searched alot and I decided to get k702 considering it was 350 MSRP And now it is 105£ in uk
I will buy it from Amazon uk and shipped to egypt through mediator site and as well the amps .I have asus b450 mb it has Supreme fx 1220 with ksc75 the dac is good without hiss or noise but the amp uses its half power to get ksc75 loud enough so with k702 then I want to get amp with it. I’m 21 student so my budget is limited to 50$ for Amp. So help to choose one of those or recommend another.
OR better I get easy to drive headphones like X2HR or ATH-900ADX or sennheiser hd599 .I will use it for gaming and music and movies,The list Are
1- creative sound blaster E1 50$ MSRP and I will get it renewed for 37$
It is amp +dac + built in mic and line in mic
2- fiio A1 + My mb dac for 37$
3- ToppingNs1+My mb dac for 52$
4-Syba sonic dac+amp for 58$
5- sabaj audio D2 dac +amp for 55$
6-Smsl idol dac +amp for 52 $
7- Xtremepro x1 dac+amp for 40$
8- creative sound blasterx G1
7.1 soundcard for 37$
9- Creative Labs Sound Blaster Play! 3
for 25$
All prices include shipping and customs to my country egypt,thx and sry for my English
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Among those options, I’d pick the Sound Blaster E1. The K702 aren’t hard to drive, so features take more of a priority at that price point.
Disclaimer: I haven’t heard any of those products, so I’m not sure which ones sound best. Honestly, I didn’t even know half of those little things existed.
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Hi My budget is 200$ for amp+ headphone like
k702 + topping Ns1 or easy to drive headphones like
X2HR OR ATH-900ADX OR Sennheiser hd599
I recently have bought koss ksc75 as my first good headphone and I’m enjoying it .then I want to get a decent headphone and keep ksc75 for portal use. I searched alot and I decided to get k702 considering it was 350$ MSRP And now it is 105£ in uk
I will buy it from Amazon uk and shipped to egypt through mediator site and as well the amps .I have asus b450 mb it has Supreme fx 1220 with ksc75 the dac is good without hiss or noise but the amp uses its half power to get ksc75 loud enough so with k702 then I want to get amp with it. I’m 21 student so my budget is limited to 50$ for Amp. So help to choose one of those or recommend another.
OR better I get easy to drive headphones like X2HR or ATH-900ADX or sennheiser hd599 .I will use it for gaming and music and movies,The list Are
1- creative sound blaster E1 50$ MSRP and I will get it renewed for 37$
It is amp +dac + built in mic and line in mic
2- fiio A1 + My mb dac for 37$
3- ToppingNs1+My mb dac for 52$
4-Syba sonic dac+amp for 58$
5- sabaj audio D2 dac +amp for 55$
6-Smsl idol dac +amp for 52 $
7- Xtremepro x1 dac+amp for 40$
8- creative sound blasterx G1
7.1 soundcard for 37$
9- Creative Labs Sound Blaster Play! 3
for 25$
All prices include shipping and customs to my country egypt,thx and sry for my English
4 Likes
Hello Everyone, I was in the sundara post seeking advice for a set up on my PC. My pc does a dac/amp with 6.3 mm headset jack. However, a lot of missing pieces of information to identify the true capabilities of this dac/amp. It does seem very good, based on the manufacturers jargon, but who knows.
Now my question here after some review which is new to me, and got some good advice for what to use to drive my sundara’s when I purchase them.
But what came to my attention is that some dac/amp come with a thunderbolt connection, my computer has a thunderbolt 3 port. But I’m having difficulty locating any amps that come with a thunderbolt connection, based off of a google search.
Not sure exactly how this breakdown and possibly maybe overkill since I’m not buying 1 or 2k headphones that is possibility in the future.
Does anyone have any advice for this type of set up? Does the dac need to be have thunderbolt compatibility? No clue.
Any thoughts?
Any chance you could provide links to these DAC/Amps?
I’m willing to bet they are just USB-C connections on dongles, not thunderbolt.
Edit - Suggestion: Keep it simple. A Schiit Asgard 3 w/ 4490 card would be a fantastic first dac/amp. Uses a simple usb connection, and its all in one box.
If you want something a little cheaper, look at the Schiit Hel. These are great values for starting off.
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I use a 2019 MacBook Pro as one of my audio sources; it has 4 USB-C ports. I doubt there are any pure Thunderbolt 3 DACs on the market, at least not modern and competitive DACs. Thunderbolt is fading away while USB-C is becoming a stronger option, even as traditional rectangular USB ports (Type A) are still very common. USB-C is by no means dominant.
With USB-C you will often need to obtain adapters. I use this item to convert from USB-A to USB-C myself:
I also have a cable that’s USB-C on one end and Micro USB on the other:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UUBRYS0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
History and specs for USB and Thunderbolt:
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The only stuff out there that has a true Thunderbolt interface (and not just USB-C), and no other digital input option, takes the form of studio/pro audio interfaces and related pieces.
And Thunderbolt really only offers three things over normal USB-2.0 Audio: lower latency, higher bandwidth, greater power capacity. All useful if you want to run an interface for both input and output, off bus-power, while supporting other powered devices, for LOTS of channels. But not really beneficial for a stereo DAC or DAC/amp.
Those tend to start around $800, and have the usual “marginal” headphone outputs on them. They’re also a lot more complicated to use … and definitely not something someone like @HeadphoneNoob is going to get very far with.
3 Likes
Got it, thanks, the website I was viewing says that is basically future proofing and most likely the future of dac amps. Going over the list of connections to dac amps. Possibly an older post just assuming.
I do have dedicated type C ports, so I am guessing that is going to be my best bet.
A lot of people and reviews are suggesting the dac amp you chose, the only thing that got me is you said the RCA hook up to my pc and seems to me based on what I learned kind of old school set up.
Any suggestions for a decent dac/amp that is usb C? I don’t need any converters, as mentioned I have dedicated usb C on board.
Maybe a couple to review to make a decision.
***also I have the 6.3 mm jack built in, I mean that connection to the dac works as well, but I’m guessing that type C is better than 6.3
Need to find an Amp again since the Cayin IHA6 shit itself after an hour.
Questyle 600i
Auralic Taurus
iFi iCan
Other SS options? Warmer than nuetral ideal, as long as not bright leaning really.
Also, in configuration to my PC, as my on board dac has 384/32 bit, how does this setup work? Do my on board drivers assist the dac amp or is the controller[external] strictly the performance I will achieve?
Do I need to disable the drivers?
How does this work?
If you want to keep it as simple as possible, go get yourself a Magni from Schiit and then run a 6.3 to split RCA input cable from your PC to it. Then you dont need to worry about drivers and will have more than enough juice to run your headphones.
Hopefully this helps.
3 Likes
Thank you for the advice, I unfortunately was assuming that rca cables were actually like the old school setup for consoles to TV. With the red, white, and yellow connection for video. Which is why again I just feel like that’s old school.
The Asgard 3 multi bit is overkill? Jotunhiem?
Why would you need the video RCA to the amp, it’s audio only.
Also, unless your PC has RCA outputs, then you are going to need to use the 6.3mm TRS connector at your PC end (or a USB connection and add an external DAC into the chain).
1 Like
Hi everyone, I am new to this forum. I want to buy my first wireless headphone.
My price range: $40
My taste of music is mostly rock.
Hi everyone my I ask you a quetion:
I am using Sennheiser Momentium 1.0 On Ears. After using it more than 5 years I had change the ear cups which changed the sound quality in a bad way. Now adays I want to switch to a bluetooth headphone. I am in between Taotronics BH 060 vs 85. They are over ear and anc, bluetooth 5.0. 85 has low latency and type c, reviews says 85 has a slitely better sound quality. The reviews says that when the BH 060s active noise cancelling on it reduce thr sound quality specially on bass and mids. But 85 doesnt change when anc on if it changes in a good way. My concern is what if I lose sound quality switching from Sennheiser to Taotronics.
Not overkill. I prefer separates which does improve the sound quality, at the expense of higher total price and more space required for separate units. I have the Asgard 3 and Modi Multibit, which I believe would pair well with your future Sundara if I’m understanding you correctly.
There are good recommendations offered earlier in this thread.
The Sundara is a lower sensitivity planar that would benefit from an amp with a bit of power, such as the Asgard 3. Less powerful amps will sound good, but you might notice a difference in soundstage, speed, dynamics, sub bass.
Between the Modi 3, Modius, and Modi Multibit, these are all solid models and it depends on your budget, the connections of each unit, and whether you favor the sound profile of delta sigma or multibit DACs.
Here’s a recent comparison of the Asgard 3 and Jotunheim.
2 Likes
Welcome Blorse.
You pack a lot into that first post.
First, with the Sennheiser Momentum 1.0 - you changed the ear PADS? (not cups). Yes that can change sound quality, but when your old pads are shot, there is not much choice. If you liked the headphones before, you could look for different pads.
Second, Bluetooth and sound quality. It’s important to know what you are using with a Bluetooth headphone to get good sound quality. This is controlled by what’s known as a “codec” and is in the headphone firmware. This article by the sound guys is not a bad intro into what you need to know. If you are using with Apple products, you want to see that it supports AAC, for everything else, at least aptX. Without that, your quality will be quite limited.
ANC - it’s own thing. If you’re in a noisy place, ANC is worth it. The quality of ANC varies quite a bit. Over-ear and ANC is not usually that good because sound will leak in no matter what. At the $40 price range you can guarantee that it’s not that good.
Other things equal, wired beats wireless.
Is this for a phone? Then you might want to consider the MIC, etc. If you have a few dollars more, and you do NOT use Apple products, consider the Koss Porta Pro Wireless.
I really can’t address the headphones you have mentioned, I’m not familiar with them.
4 Likes
Welcome Blorse. Quality wireless can be a challenge. Quality wireless at your price point even more so. Your best bet might be Koss. However, in my research and based on mixed reviews, I didn’t proceed to buying. The Koss wired Porta-Pros and KSC75s are considered benchmarks at their price points, but it appears not yet firmly established for wireless.
You might also consider the Samsung Galaxy Buds (prior generation or open box may be in your price point). Good luck.
https://www.koss.com/headphones/wireless-headphones?Use=Wireless
4 Likes
See I was watching reviews on these products and it got me even more confused now as you just mentioned @bpcarb , not sure why the reply function isn’t working.
So now there’s another device in the pool too. Got me very confused on purpose as I know nothing.
So you buy the Asgard 3, then you connect it the midi or connect it to another device then to your source.
The gentleman was suggesting the bifrost 2 to eliminate this but that is of course pricey.
In addition, I think the multi bit dac is probably more for speakers. Not understanding the functionality and creating more confusion. Says it reproduces 14 bit sound~. But the amps say 384/32 bit, why would I want 14 bit.
This was getting smooth until more variables are becoming factored in.
@HeadphoneNoob, calm yourself. Don’t try to grok in totality all at once. Please put you hands on you wallet and lock it somewhere safe until you’re pretty sure things make sense.
There are some rather technical discussions here explaining the differences in DACs and “multibit” DACs vs more common types. One of these explains that the bits they’re talking about are not quite the same.
When something (not probably an amp) says 384/32, that is referring to bit rates and depth, or the sampling of the music. 44.1/16 is the standard “redbook” CD. Higher resolution music files have higher numbers. Not all equipment is capable of the highest rates, and quite a bit of music wasn’t sampled at the highest rates and depth anyway. You do want to be able to resolve what you are likely to encounter. (Someone else can add to this part of the reply)
The Asguard is an amp that has the ability to combine with your choice of 2 DAC boards. making it a DAC/AMP. Just like you can put a different sound or video board in a computer. These modules (or the phono pre-amp module) are described (sort of) on the Schiit site in the upgrades section. At least their relative pricing is.
The multibit DAC is not necessarily more for speakers. I have a Bifrost 2 or order - should get it this week - and I don’t think I will try to find a place for it in my main speaker system. I do expect to use it near my Mac Mini, which will be the usual source. The Mac will output bits from it’s USB to the DAC and the DAC will send an analog signal to one of two headphone amps.
I feel for your distress. Until a couple of years ago, I couldn’t figure out why I might even want or need a DAC. I had a headphone jack on my phone and on the laptop, and on the Mac Mini, and the Linux box, and on my old CD player and and and.
I knew since about 1998 that I did need a headphone amp for some headphones. I knew that those headphone jacks were not always the highest quality. But I was thinking analog back then. Never occurred to me that there was a cheap DAC turning bits into sound to drive the crappy amplification circuits.
Besides, when I wanted to listen to MUSIC, I usually played a record. (That’s a flat, vinyl disk about 12 inches around with a hole in the middle. It spins and there’s a thingamajig that touches it and vibrates - wierd). No bits or DACs or anything.
It took me a good 2 years on and off to get my head around this stuff, and I was already sort of into audio. Just keep asking questions. Even if you asked it before, ask it again to be sure. Or verify your understanding with the respected person who is trying to explain.
“so if I understand you correctly, I plug the XXY connector into the Frammistan, and the other end splits into to ARSE-Y-YAY male connectors that go into the female connectors of the MultibitVOODOO box. If the purple light blinks, it’s OK?”
If the respected tutor is off base, it’s certain that @TylersEclectic, @ProfFalkin, @generic, @antdroid, or someone else will tag them out, and that @ValentineLuke will award a good tutor with a 
.
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