Yes, P-P and J-S are the correct way to specify the mating connectors.
The rest is down to what style of connector, what type of shield (if any), diameter of barrels and number of pins (the last two indirectly effect the useable wire-gauge and cable entry.
Yeah, cool.
My only concern is a pair is 18grams. Getting quite weighty. How do you find it real world?
Lemo make a pair, ends up 56mm long, much lighter, though I think (tbc).
I use the larger 10 series w/ 12 pins, which are 30g a pair and 58mm long per connected pair, and there are two pairs on my cables. It’s a non-issue for me … the rest of the cables/wire is quite a bit heavier.
I could see it being an issue with a simple insulated 4-wire braid, relatively speaking.
All-up weight for a 6 ft build of my main cable is 200g.
Yep, my thoughts. A 4x22awg or thereabouts braided type cable might be a bit ligh in construction relative to the hirose pair.
Will see what this Lemo guy comes back with for options. Only Lemo I’ve worked on it the Utopia. And despite the rear barrell having a decent opening, the strain/tension relief part just inside is much much smaller and you can barely fit 2x22awg wires through it.
Might just need to buy a few random sets and see what actually looks good in person. Spend more money.
Which Lemo did you use? 00 or 0B?
I have some 0B coming. The shorter barrel male version.
I’ll let you know how it goes.
5 pin version to run the shielding on one too.
Post crack build, I found myself without an enjoyable project at night. (I’ll get to those bathroom vanities any day now)
So, I’ve been dabbling in learning cable making:
Here is a mini-xlr to 1/4, made with Mogami wire:
And here are some canare star quad starts. these have the braided shielding left intact, and then are threaded through Paracord.
I tried a braided interconnect, butt the openings on the strain relief were just too small. I need to rethink how to do that, because the braided look is very cool.
Next attempt will probably be a full cable. maybe. I don’t know. I don’t actually need anything, which is usually why I build stuff.
Snip the rubber off, then use a drill bit to widen the hard plastic. That’s what I did when getting a big cable group into the back of those Rean connectors.
How was Sundara’s wiring in the cups? I have tried to find it but I’m not 100% sure if it goes like:
Left pos: tip
Left neg: sleeve
Right pos: ring
Right neg: sleeve
I don’t own nor have ever seen Sundaras but I’m making cables for a customer.
Anyone see a problem with a speaker tap cable that’s single ended? I’ve made a few XLR ones fine. Just combine the negatives in the female 1/4" socket and done?
Probably like this:
But replace the TRS with female, and RCA with banana/spades.
Disclaimer though, I haven’t actually made one, nor used one, before.
Yeah, know what to wire. More wondering if there is any difference given its from speaker taps that I’m not considering / aware of.
What are you trying to do? Drive headphones off speaker taps?
Yeah. But a single ended cable, not 4pin XLR.
I personally would not do this. I think it’s just too dangerous for the amp, headphones, and your hearing of anything goes wrong. My buddy exploded a pair of Code6 headphones (LFF modded 6 screw HE6 headphones) off a Vidar, even though he was using a converter box that had resistors in parallel and series to step the power down. It also didn’t do great things to the Vidar because apparently such a contraption also wants to draw more power than the amp is designed for.
Edit: you would be much better off converting those headphones to run a balanced connection then you would be from trying to convert an amplifier to run single ended. Please consider doing this first.
See the post I made about why bridging balanced connections is bad, then multiply that bad by 100 for speaker amplifiers because you get that much more power from them.
If you still want to proceed…
IF (and only if) the speaker amp is only driven on the (+) terminal and the (-) terminal is ground, then bridging the L and R (-) terminals might not explode the amplifier (there are still no guarantees it won’t explode), and bridging these connections will have to happen to convert it to a single ended TRS jack. In other words, you’re still playing with fire, literally.
If you have a multimeter, you set it to measure AC and then can put the red probe on the (-) terminal, black probe on a ground connection (wall socket, ground point on the chassis, something…) and see if it’s driving anything when music is playing at really low volume. If it just sits at 0V, then only the (+) terminal is powered and you theoretically should be safe. If you see any voltage across that, do NOT bridge the L and R (-) terminals.
Now, you should also put protection in there. Many threads on various sites go over how to add a voltage divider to this connection so you don’t immediately blow things up. At bare minimum, a resistor across the outputs will help.
Reading:
Or, you can just get something which does all that in a single box. (It’s an XLR plug, I know.) Headphones & portable audio - HIFIMAN.com
But, this still won’t keep your headphones/amp from doing bad bad things if you accidentally bump the volume knob. RIP your hearing too.
I knew if I poked the magic knowledge bear he would wake up. Thanks Prof.
I was thinking about it more (more than for 5 seconds) and came to the conclusion it was a bad idea (for the obvious reason you stated above) and have recommended he gets a balanced cable made. As enjoyable as blowing up some D8000 Pro’s would be.
D8000 Pros?
Then I take back everything I said. Doing it is now a moral imperative.
Roger.
Making the cable now.
I’ve included instructions to “start at max and work your way down to a good listening level”
You can’t buy the locking connectors for the D8KP, and my experience was the longer 3.5 mm connectors that fit don’t seat very securely in mine.
Which leaves your options at buy a balanced cable from Final (they charge you a $300 for using a balanced connector) or just re-terminate one of the existing cables. I reterminated the black one to 4 pin XLR.
Having said that it’s not a headphone driving off speaker taps is really necessary, almost anything will drive them, though better amps obviously sound better, it’s not like the Susvara where you need tons of current to bring the best out in them.
