Here’s what I found…
The white under the black foam looks like it’s the inner stem of the tip…should all be one piece.
yes but no matter the force its not coming off. the comply tip tears if i twist but in a way that seem its going to break something.
Dude, use a plier in the foam section and slowly increase compression while rotating back and forth the eartip. It will eventually come out.
It won’t disconnect the nozzle because they are different parts altogether. E.g.: see at 1’17" from this video:
Hope this helps.
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Hello everyone!
I just got the Questyle M15 portable DAC/Amp, per DMS’s review, and I’m wondering if there’s a way to power this thing without draining my phone’s battery.
There’s only 1 USB-C input on the M15 where it gets data and power. The data/digital music signal needs to come from my phone, but I want a way to get the required power for the amp from the wall or a battery bank rather than my phone so it doesn’t kill my phone’s battery.
I feel like there has to be a device that can do this. Could someone please point me in the right direction of the type of device that I’m looking for?
Thank you!
You could use a powered hub.
Are you wanting to do this and be portable or in a stationary situation?
Oh that’s all I need? That’d be nice. Portable would be cool when I do want to take it on the go, but the main purpose would be to listen to music at work, so stationary is fine too if that’s cheaper or something like that.
EDIT: Is something like this all I need?
I’d think so. I have a couple of the earlier version that was Lightning to Lightning + Charge and they’re bulletproof. With my iPad mini (USB-C) I went for a cheap USB C dock with a charge input as well, I might want to have more options. But that’s all that would be needed to power my L&P W4 and the iPad (or a USB-C phone) indefinitely. Oh yeah and power…
Sounds great, thank you so much both of you!
Depending on make/model of your phone, that may or may not work (it doesn’t work with some of my phone’s).
That device is to charge your device at the same time as using the USB port for the dongle.
If all you want is for the M15 not to use your phones battery (not to recharge the phone at the same time), then what I use is a normal USB hub with an external power supply. The same as if using a laptop/PC etc.
There are many out there and some are better than others with regards to noise from power supply. I have had good results with UGreen and with one of the Amazon Basics models but others have not been so good.
But this is more of a stationary set up.
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My old FiiO Q5 portable amp has the most frustrating charging system I’ve ever used. The amp has two USB ports: one on the amp body and the other on the headphone output module. It’ll charge only through one of the ports, and it requires a proprietary FiiO USB cable. It’s also picky about the device used as a source (Windows, Mac, iOS, Android) and operating system.
Maybe something like this? I’ll need USB-C PD and another USB-C out for the M15
https://a.co/d/2NIZP7c
Hey guys - I’m running a USB C to USB B cable to a Matrix X-SPDIF 2 (or a Denafrips Iris DDC) to run to a Sonnet Morpheus DAC in order to run music through the Morpheus’s I2S connection. For some reason audio isn’t being passed through to them even when they’re selected in my audio settings of my macbook. On the Matrix, it’ll play for a few seconds then get really choppy until Spotify tells me it can’t play the file, whereas it won’t even let me select the source on Tidal. The Mac is recognizing both devices as they both come up named in the audio output selection.
Anyone have any insight? Kind of scratching my head here.
Are you able to ensure a USB-2 standard connection from the USB-C to the Matrix? It’s just a thought but the device might have an older firmware or improperly implemented one that can’t take higher speeds. I’ve used throttled cable (FiiO) or Audioquest Dragontail to force lower speed. Had to with my Sabaj DAC/Amp.
Not saying this is the case here, but something to try.
If I had to bet, I’d say a recent MacOS update killed the driver. I’ve had to update or abandon many devices and applications on MacOS over the years, as Apple has little concern for old releases. There’s often minimal warning (or awareness) when software breaks. Even my mainstream HP inkjet printer went through several periods of non-functionality after OS updates killed the driver, even as the Windows versions worked.
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Some updates here - I’ve since restarted my Mac and the Mac → USB → Matrix → Optical—>Morpheus chain is working now without any issues. Additionally, the Mac → USB → Iris DDC → optical → Morpheus chain is working as well, so the good news is all my devices are working. Unfortunately, the Mac → USB → Iris DDC → ethernet/I2S cable → Morpheus chain is still not working. Could I be using the wrong kind of ethernet cable? This is my first foray into I2S.
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There’s no standard for i2s, and usually you have to fiddle with dip switches to get it working.
It might also require a custom cable, but you’ll need to establish the wiring.
Most DDC’s come preconfigured for the PS Audio “standard” which is HDMI cable based, and used by several manufacturers.
You’ll probably have to talk to the DAC or DDC manufacturer, or someone else who has the specific working combination for the settings.
From Sonnets page Accessoires
The I2S module is dedicated for Sonnet products like for instance our Hermes streamer. However in some cases by removing four jumpers on top of the module it will act as a high impedance receiver and therefore more flexible to match with other products. Still Sonnet Digital Audio cannot guarantee the correct behaviour in conjunction with other systems. If you have any doubts about the correct match with our products don’t hesitate to contact us.
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Hi, everyone
I have a problem with an unbearable static-y buzzing noise, where upon plugging something into my devices, I will get the said noise, unless something, like music or other audio, is drowning it out and suffocating it.
The issue was most prevalent with my Moondrop Kato IEMs, but also occurred with my Pioneer HDJ-X5s. With my Katos, it happened on every device I used them on: my laptop, my phone, my PS5 controller, my DGX670 digital piano - all of them had that unbearable static noise. When I asked some audio communities, I was told I had been sent a faulty unit; some told me, that the Kato in general is just too sensitive, hence prone to picking up the buzzing noise, recommending me to buy some device, one I cannot recall; then some said the devices I use them on are just not engineered well. I refunded them. The buzzing noise happened with my HDJ-X5s, too, but only with my PS5 controller. I found a pair of Panasonic HP-RT 161s, and with them, there was no such issue.
I really don’t know what to make of this, so I’m hoping maybe one of you can help me understand this problem and find a fix for this as well.
Thank you!
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I am having an issue with the Feliks Echo 2 and my fault finding has sort of narrowed it down but not sure where to check next (mainly due to my lack of knowledge with tube amps).
I have a sound that can best be described as a faint train sound (like the sound of a train along a track when you are on it) but there is also a sort of scratching sound going on which is louder but also with a constand rhythm, around each second or so (the trains sound is constant).
Here is what I can say after the fault finding I have done:
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The sounds are in the left channel.
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The sounds are present both on headphone output and preamp output, even with volume level at zero.
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Sounds do not get louder when turning volume up on amp.
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Sounds exist with all headphones and IEMs tried (louder with more sensitive ones).
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The sounds are still present even with no input cables connected to the amp (except power of course).
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Different power sockets make no difference, nor does the issue exist with any other equipment plugged into the same source.
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Inverting preamp tubes (left to right and vice versa) does not change the side of the sounds (still on left side).
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Inverting amplification tubes (left to right and vice versa) does not change the side of the sounds (still on left side).
So… Any ideas what to test next?
(I don’t have any more tubes for this amp but I would have thought that swapping them between channels would discard a tube issue anyway?)
Thanks.
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Tube amps can be incredibly sensitive to noise. You’ve hit the obvious starting points, but there are a few other things to consider. Accept that you may need to send it in for service.
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Environmental electrical noise. Based on your summary I don’t think this is the issue, but you might try moving it to another room or building. Beyond switching power sockets, move it away from household appliances, fluorescent lights (a big issue with electric guitar hiss), and keep cell phones and other similar devices far away. I used to store my cell phone on a shelf directly above a tube amp – it caused fluctuating “whish, whish, whish” and steady “tick, tick, tick” sounds. There’s a reason why many tube amps have ugly functional cages that hide those pretty tubes.
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Adjust the depth of jack insertion. My Bottlehead Crack gives me weird problems per the socket alone. If a jack is inserted all the way, sometimes one channel cuts out or I get cross-over mono sound. If “just wrong” I get noise and distortion. If lifted up by 1-2 credit card thicknesses it sounds great. Some jacks don’t do this but others are always a struggle. I’ve had similar issues with solid state amps, but not the noise pollution.
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Something inside may be failing or defective. This could be wiring. a capacitor, etc. This requires service by a tube amp electrician or a return to the factory. Don’t mess with the insides unless you are experienced – the build manual for the Crack has lots of scary warnings about high voltage and the potential of death. “Use only your right hand to keep the electrical current away from your heart…”
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Yeah, tried different rooms and different ring mains, sound still persists.
No joy here either I’m afraid.
It seems like this may be the only answer. We have an electronics department/workshop at work, where we repair audio and lighting equipment etc. but not much use for tube amps in our field of work, so nobody really has any experience with them here.
I guess I will try to find a tech somewhere here in Spain which I am guessing isn’t going to be easy. I might reach out to Feliks first and see what they say.
Thanks Generic.
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