I learnt a new word today, I had to look up almádena.
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Perhaps that’s because it’s a FORD tool.
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Now I’m gonna have to Google again…
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I sorted of cheated with this one. I bought a extra long version of this cable from XinHS and just told him to not add any connectors. He can add Sennheiser connectors for you. But I didn’t like the style he had available. I also had him install a different Y-split since I hate the carbon inlay style stuff and this one looked nice it the photos; the build for it turned out to be kinda cheap, so I don’t recommend it.
The cable ended up costing $35, which seems a bit high considering the lack of connectors. But then again, I think they’re braiding this style by hand. The only thing I need to do is find some good heat shrink for the connectors which I’ll probably borrow from work. Total cost for this cable came out to about $50.
Sennheiser Connectors, $9
Litz Cable from XinHS
This particular cable ended up being difficult to work with due to its weird coaxial design. It has an outer layer of of regular copper and an inner layer of silver plated copper. The inner layer has its own insulation layer that needs to be carefully stripped off.
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In my line of work, I refer to it as a “precision alignment tool”
You just don’t like Ford’s because they don’t respond well to an L-cushion tape mod
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Hi folks! This is a very interesting thread for sure! I built a long, six meter, balanced cable for my Audeze LCD-5, LCD-4 and LCD-XC (Bubinga) on the cheap so I came up with some Cardas 4x24 cable, Furutech connectors and a long forgotten (and probably faux) carbon fiber splitter.
Also, I have an ancient pair of Sony MDR CD-3000 phones that are probably a little over thirty (30) years old, the ones with the cellulose diaphragms, that I had to do some rework on due to the dry rotting of not only the headband and supporting tensioner, but the foam internals in each of the cups had dry rotted and were making bad noises when excited by any level of audio. I simply removed all the offending dry rotted foam and all is good on the sonic front. I recreated the headband using some elephant leather I had lying around and the earpads were also changed out to leather covered memory foam goodies. The headphone cable is, of course, hardwired to the left earcup and is terminated in a 3.5mm TRS. What I’d like to do is rewired the headset and make the entire system balanced with another Furutech 4.4mm male TRRS for the amp end. I am at a loss of what sort of cable to select but the primary criteria are that is must be small enough to fit into the rubber grommet/cable protector installed in the left earcup and it must be as free of microphonics and as flexible as possible. If anyone has any recommendations on four conductor cable to use I would certainly appreciate it!
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I have been making 4 wire cables for a while. Have a supply of 22awg litz in quite a thick jakcet, very very soft. And expensive.
For shits and giggles decided to try a 8wire version. Went with no splitter as its too thick, just neatly braided from 8 into the 4s.
Had to grind back the Furutech connector bodies in order to fit the 4 wires in, and modify the internals as well.
The main cable has a diameter of 10mm and weighs about 37 pounds per inch. I’m not good with imperial measurements, but that sounds right.
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Looks very nice!
Question, for two cables going into the 4-pin mini-XLR, do you split/half the wire strands to wire up two pins or only wire up one?
Yeah they are all working. So each channel has 2x22awg wires, + and - each side.
Beautiful cable. Is this what you use to take the 69KV volt AC to the 230v step-down transformer? I only ask because I’m thinking of maintenance issues on longer lengths due to weight. Or does Australia use something other than 69KV for medium voltage urban distribution?
Hmm. Checked it out, looks like you use 33KV or 132KV for AC and some ±1500 volt DC
Here’s a 40 lb item. I’m sure you get a good workout having one of these every inch:
This cable surely makes old school Audeze headphones feel as light as a feather.
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On your 4 wire cable builds, with only 2 wires per channel, would you split those then to wire up to the 4-pin mini XLR connectors?
Nope. The 4pin mini XLR is popular just because, Audeze decide to use it and now it’s on a lot of cans. Only Pin 1 and Pin 3 are used, Pin 2 and Pin 4 can be left unused, or you can bridge them in but no real point.
If there was a 2pin mini xlr, they could use that.
Abyss 1266 uses the 3pin Mini XLR, using Pin 1 and 3 only also. And reversing the polarity just to be funny buggers. Plugging a 4pin mini xlr female (audeze cable) into a 3pin male socket (1266 for example) will work with some elbow grease, but it does bend the pins a bit, they are slightly different alignments. It would also put the 1266 out of phase, sound a bit off maybe.
So in the 8 wire, 2 wires are going to pin 1 and 2 to pin 3. I had to clip off pin 2 to give me some room.
Actually only use 2 of the 8 for that. Rest are for show and future upgrades.
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Oh ok. I must admit, I’ve only ever tested the cable side of things with a multimeter. I guess I could do the same on the headphone side to see which pins are used/unused. The pinouts that I found was:
XLR Pin 1 → Mini-XLR R Pin 1 & 4
XLR Pin 2 → Mini-XLR R Pin 2 & 3
XLR Pin 3 → Mini-XLR L Pin 2 & 3
XLR Pin 4 → Mini-XLR L Pin 1 & 4
So with that, assumed that they were all used and whether you needed to bridge or wire both pins.
heh, probably so people would buy their 4k JPS headphone cables to make it sound not weird and “amazing” / better.
Yeah not sure why they do it dude. ZMF and others done. The transducer only has a + and - …
Guess you could say its a greater contact area assuming the same pins are bridged inside the headphone? But then its a bit of a null piont when you see the size of the wire they using inside headphones anyway, I guess.
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would you be able to let me know what type of cable you have used for those?
Thanks
Project: Convert the Koss PortaPro cable to the Hart Audio Cables modular system
I bought a mini XLR connector from Adorama, cut off the 3.5mm jack, and soldered the wires.
Notes:
- My soldering skills are poor…don’t look inside. The 8th try was the charm.
- Mini XLR-4 connectors are mini. They require a sharp eye and a steady hand. I have neither.
- The PortaPro has incredibly thin wires. I didn’t try to remove the factory insulation, and just melted through with the solder.
Sources for wiring pinouts and testing:
I can now run the PortaPro with balanced amps. I’ll provide audio comments in the PortaPro thread after testing, at least as long as my soldering job holds up.
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Try doing a few DB15 or 2.5mm TRRS, it makes the mini XLRs seem so much easier 
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